Yeah, the striped threads are what had me looking closer than usual, but not related to the question I had. I was more curious if that cause Cut away section was factory or part of the thread repair that some one attempted before I got it
I think it’s just to allow for more of the spent oil to drain from the pan. Seen it on many different cars.
Edit: Keep in mind that not having a full set of threads makes the plug more sensitive to over torquing. Drain plugs do not require a lot of torque. Look up the specs for your car and use a torque wrench if you’re uncertain.
Oh hush lol, I’m learning and the aftermath of the failed thread repair got curious because I’ve not seen one like that before, wasn’t sure just how much the last guy messed it up vs what was factory. Other guys in the shop weren’t sure either.
“Messed it up”? Do you have no concept of how much talented work that would take to aftermarket gouge a channel like that without any damage to the nearby threads? No warping, no scuffing, not a single scratch? Fucksake. You can laugh at your momentary lapse in common sense, or you can double down and make excuses for it. Only the latter isn’t being a dumbass twice in a row, kiddo.
Lmao, you’re so mad 🤣 and you’re not even paying attention. I said the threads were damaged. Stop trying to be an elitist asshole and pay attention. As I pulled the drain plug out the attempted repair pulled out with it. What you’re seeing here is after it was cleaned back up and I could finally see it better. The other tech had already started tapping and recutting the threads.
How about instead of calling me a dumbass you actually try to be a decent person?
Biggest piece of advice I could give is to STAY OFF THE TOOL TRUCKS!!! Snap-On, Matco, MAC, ect… The tools from those trucks really are high quality but the amount you pay is a shit load more than what you would pay for tools at Napa, Lowes, Home Depot. Those tool trucks always get the new guys by saying, “it’s only $150 a week.” It’s also pretty hard to ask to defer paying when the tool guy comes to you every week.
When I started buying tools, I went a bit crazy racking up a debt and paying it off was a nightmare for my first few years. You really don’t need the $7000 Snap-On toolbox, no matter how cool it looks. Look for used boxes and tools. Pay up front for as much as you can. Buy Husky/Kobalt/Craftsman/ect…
Still, tool quality is important, especially when it comes to measured tools such as a good torque wrench.
I took advantage of a Harbor Freight sale where they had a certain model torque wrench for like $10 plus tax. Hoping for the best of ‘close enough’, I went ahead and bought it.
I’m glad I tested it that evening though. I tested it on my bicycle, and something was seriously wrong with that torque wrench. Not like it was just simply out of calibration either, it actually felt like they packed the thing with sand instead of grease/oil!
I got a refund on that thing real quick the next day!
TL;DR - always test your new tools before tackling any important projects.
They did provide a shop toolbox, but the implications seemed to be that these are what I can use until I get my own, not something I should expect to use forever.
This was my thought. I made $10/hr at entry level in 2004, and I didn't need to provide any tools. I bought my first tools on 2006, not sure how relavent my experience on that is now. Didn't have a harbor freight.
Wild. I was going to say buy an electric drill. I used a black and decker from menards for a few years as a lube tech to remove all the screws from the skid plates. The tool truck drills were garbage. My black and decker is still going strong on the original batteries and it’s been over a decade at least.
Battery powered tools weren’t as much of a thing in 2005, but still any and all electric tools pose a potential additional risk of fire, especially near potentially combustible fluids like oil.
I learned this as one of my first jobs working a Texaco oil change shop.
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