I was gifted an entire bottle of sake last night (to have with dinner and then take the rest with me) by my amazing host and after the magic of last night and tonight I’ve ended up in a cheap dump that’s making me a bit sad so I’ll be downing some of that sake right about now
Damn, I think I’ve had enough mountain driving for the whole year. I’ve had an amazing time but I’m exhausted!!! Hours of single lane winding roads in the rain and fog with local drivers paying no attention to the speed limits, I’ve definitely tested my driving skills to the max. This little Yaris I’ve rented has been perfect for the drive though. The steering is definitely much more light and responsive than what I’m used to in Australia.
e: after some thought I think I’ll regretfully can the Shimanami Kaido cycling part of my trip. It’s just too complicated and expensive, what with mailing my luggage ahead and hopping between accommodation, not to mention bike rentals and having the wrong kind of bag and paying $55 just for the train back that way.
As much as I want to have more of an active experience and don’t want to be that kind of traveller… I think I could get more from a nice accom in a quiet part of Tokyo for 4 days and do more walking and journalling and visiting some cool museums and the like.
This is the view from my accom tonight that I wished I could’ve stayed two nights at, but alas only one… The sound of the river and the clear, fresh air is so healing… could spend a whole week here soaking up the everything.
It doesn’t matter how much you’ve seen of the photos and accounts of the atomic bombs in Japan, the museum at Hiroshima still leaves a real impact on you. The crowds are huge though, I’m very glad I booked a ticket to enter the museum earlier (7:30-8:30) and take my time without navigating hordes of school students and tourists
Got to my accom about half an hour ago, booked tickets for the peace memorial museum tomorrow, there’s a cafe right downstairs which is perfect to get myself going asap in the morning. Think I can get it all done in time. I hate rushing through something so important, but it is what it is. I think 3.5-4 hours should hopefully be plenty for the museum and park.
I have a whole bunch of gum nuts collected from across the country if that counts. And various Maxwell Williams cups and plates with native plants and animals (including a tea towel from the themed set). Also a poster with a stylised depiction of Melbourne intersections… Nothing traditionally Australiana.
Aaaand crisis averted, the weather cleared and we snagged that ferry, got to the train station with just enough time to wrangle a ticket and grab a bento, now on the shinkansen to Hiroshima. 3 more hours of sitting down… wish I had a little tablet for travelling. It’ll be laaate when I get to my accom and check in, not much time to unwind and do my hair and all that. Need to be up asap tomorrow to check out the Peace Museum and all that and then get my arse to the ferry by about noon, 2 hours of ferry then a mad rush to car rental place and 2-2.5 hrs driving.
Starting to think maybe my last few days should be chillaxing and not activity focused…
There are some really unexpectedly neat/chill pockets of Tokyo that make it absolutely worth spending more time at! That bar sounds grouse. I’ll have to see what my last few days are like, I was planning to have a go at the Shimanami Kaido from Imabari to Onomichi, spend a day in Onomichi then take a late train to Tokyo and do a wee bit of targeted shopping on my last day before flying off in the afternoon. But depending of how much energy I have, I might be tempted to be more of an urbanite and head from Takamatsu to do 3 nights in a cute part of Tokyo like Musashino or something hmmm
Ooh what a coincidence! Yep it’s looking wet all across south and east Japan. I’m only spending one night in Hiroshima unfortunately, and then tootling around Shikoku (mostly driving through amazing scenery, visiting some natural features and seeing some traditional villages). Won’t be going to the big cities aside from one night + day in Tokyo before I fly off. If there’s just one place you’d recommend checking out in Tokyo that’s a bit alternative or off the beaten track what would it be? I confess I don’t do big cities that well which is why I’m spending the least amount of time possible in Tokyo. How long will you be down in Hiroshima?
You’d think that having lived in Melbourne so long, my friends and I would know to check the weather forecast and plan accordingly, but despite knowing that there would be some bad weather associated with a low pressure system hitting the south of Japan today, we didn’t think to bail from the island yesterday… and this morning’s ferries are now all cancelled.
Luckily I was able to change our ticket to an afternoon ferry but it means I might get to my accommodation in Hiroshima rather late tonight - assuming the ferry even runs, because there’s every chance it might be cancelled too and we’ll have to stay here for an extra night… thank fuck I hadn’t booked my shinkansen ticket but hopefully I can still make it to a later leg of my travel where I’ve got accom and car rental booked. Time to just chill for now though
Woops. Apparently had a tiny bingle while parking on a narrow mountain trail in Japan and was in such a rush that I didn’t even notice I had bumped into anyone else. The other driver had a dashcam though so they got in touch with the police and I had an urgent email from the rental company, who thank god took care of everything - there was no excess or fine or anything and they reassured me it was all okay and everything was covered. Couldn’t sleep last night from the anxiety and just gave a statement at the cop shop so that the relative insurances could follow up. I’m so grateful for the lovely lady at the rental car place who was extremely calming and reassuring… 😔
I keep having weird dreams at my current accom. Last night it was a very vivid one where I’d somehow had to move into a share house full of irritatingly self-absorbed and messy adults who were in their little northside cliques and weren’t keen on making space for me. It was so alienating and made me desperate to move back to my own place. I bolted awake thinking I needed to email my previous landlord asap and beg to go back to my own apartment. The relief I felt when I realised a few minutes later that I didn’t need to do any of that…
The day before it was about my brother betraying my location to my dad. Definitely a theme of despair and being trapped, and waking up to remember what freedoms I do have.
I think it’s the humidity. 90%+ every day indoors. It always brings up bad memories…
Yesterday was the only day on the island where we’ve had sun. Today it’s overcast again and this afternoon it’s back to more rain… slept in massively after two days of hiking (with a thoroughly unconditioned body), time to get outta bed and go walk to the nearest town for some coffee and to get some postcards.
How on earth do the trees in Japan look so naturally stylish over waterbodies though?!? Is it the tiered structure of the crown?
Jeez that’s what the structure fire warning I saw earlier today was… middle of a hike and got to a rare spot with phone reception and an unexpected ping.