Thanks for the input. I’ll definitely spray paint the SLA parts. Not sure if spray painted keycaps will feel more “slippery” but I’ll test first with some of them.
Good point with the TPU. I’m not sure what’s available, but probably Ninjaflex (so 85A?)
Hmm what’s the rationale to print the plate with FDM? Are SLA plates brittle or inflexible? (if printed with ABS)? I don’t have much experience with SLA. And good point, I’ll check Thingiverse for the thickness.
Nice idea! Do you mean on top of the switch plate? I’m still brainstorming the design, but it will have a removable layer on top of the plate to hide the switches’ legs (I don’t like that “naked” feel) & keep some dust from falling inside the kb.
Good point! I’ve been considering to print a TPU “sock” of some kind to put on top of a FDM/SLA printed keycap to mimic a silicone (or silicone-like) keycaps, just to see what it feels like. Maybe it’s better to make a mold to try other materials too!
You mean like a mini power bank? Makes sense, since they’re indeed quite easy to find! Maybe I could use USB C instead of JST connection to power each half.
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for!
And yes, my keyboard did work fine on wired mode for a while (using ZMK), but because I had to constantly plug and unplug the USB C cable while transporting the keyboard over several months, the port became loose over time. Having a magnetic USB adapter could solve that problem next time.
Ooh that was an interesting approach. Glad you got it to work. In my case, I just replaced the failed battery with a new, temporary one (of dubious quality), then patched everything together with some rough soldering work and electrical tape.
True, I’ve been seeing mostly 18650s and only a handful of 14500s in the hobbyist shops where I travelled (South-East Asia). The latter was not crazy rare, still, so it’s a good candidate.
Sorry, just edited my post for more clarity. Adding a JST connector would certainly help, but the problem is I might not be able to find a replacement battery with the same JST connector while travelling in an unfamiliar country or region.
Sorry, just updated my post for more clarity. Essentially, I found a temporary workaround (replaced that failed battery), and I’m considering a permanent solution for my next build/upgrade, which is to somehow power the board at 3.7 V with common batteries (AA, AAA or rechargeable AA/AAA-sized LiPos), or a power bank.
Yeah wireless charging would be really useful. It’s what I have planned for my next kb build. This could allow for smaller battery capacities to be used as well, since it’s easy to charge and reposition the kb halves while in use.
Haha legit point! I definitely need one for as long as I still have to travel with my current kb, just in case more things break. I just learned of the Pinecil the other day, and it looks like the perfect candidate for a portable mini soldering iron.
Nice job! Yeah, all is sorted out… for now xD There’s a chance something might come loose but at least I can access my tools back home soon-ish! Meanwhile, thinking how best to prevent this issue for my next build…
Thank you! I considered the coin cell idea for a while, but the battery capacity looks a bit too small. Still, it has low footprint & is so easy to find :D
3D printed Ergo kb parts: SLA vs. FDM?
Hi All,...
Easily replaceable battery for wireless splits while travelling? (lemmy.world)
[EDITED for clarity]...