Use the same place where the old flight of stairs used to be: the house’s structure and floor statics were calculated to have stairs there. You don’t want to mess with a house’s structure without the help of a statics engineer!
A little bit of “Stair maths” to start. Sorry for metric units, you might have to convert them if you’re in the US.
The ideal stair has an angle of 30°, a rise of 17 centimetres up, from step to step, with steps 29 cm deep, from front to back. Two rises plus one depth should be as close as possible to 63 cm because of the length of a human’s step.
You won’t get this ideal in most cases, because the distance between the upper and lower floor will rarely be an exact mulitiple of 17 cm.
1: measure this distance, finished upper floor to finished lower floor. Divide by 17 cm. Round up or down to get the number of steps you need.
2: Divide the distance between the floors by the number of steps from above
3: Use the “2 rises plus 1 depth = 63 cm” to determine the ideal depth. Stay as close to that as possible to make the stairs easy, safe and comfortable to walk on. It’s a good idea to make a drawing to scale at this point, to see how the stairs fit in the floorplan.
4: Now you can calculate the length of the stairs using good old Pythagoras (a^2 + b^2 = c^2, “a” being the distance between the floors, “b” is the depth of one step multiplied by the number - from above, “c” is the length of the stair - and the boards (“stringers”) on either side as well as the handrails).
Now you can calculate the material you need. Two stringer boards, the required number of steps of the correct length, plus brackets and screws on either side of each, plus one or two handrails plus balusters.
Definitely gonna save this for later. Having the formulas laid out like that is nice. Plus, what you said lines up pretty well with the wikihow linked above. While that isn't the best source for confirmation, it makes me comfortable knowing that multiple sources came to the same methodology.
In addition to these general guidelines, there are likely specific building codes in your area for minimum dimensions of stairs. Plenty of homes have non-compliant stairs, but it’ll save you a lot of hassle in the long run if you do things to code.
I like this kind of video. I think he could’ve kept it even more basic though.
Imo, the isopropyl alcohol is unnecessary. Just clean your surfaces and keep them dry afterward. Any potential pathogen needs water to multiply. Take that away and their numbers will be limited to a safe level.
Disinfection is superfluous if you adhere to clean+dry, and it is useless if you clean but leave surfaces wet
I used isopropyl for a bit and found it highly underwhelming. It wasn't great for cleaning and it evaporated way to quick. It has it's uses but not in the house cleaning department
A 1:1 mix of White vinegar and water is an ancient and cheap cleaner. The smell doesn’t linger long at the correct dilution and it kills a whole bunch of things.
Add a little liquid soap for nonporous surfaces like counters and stove tops, great grease and stuck-on fighter especially if combined with a scrubber. Damp cloth to wipe up after and you’re shiny.
It can be convenient when cleaning stainless or glass since it can dissolve grease and dries up streakless. Otherwise window cleaner spray also works amazingly.
Otherwise no idea why one would use it on other surfaces.
How bad is the “cupping?” Just a bit of give as you walk over it but otherwise level, or literally bowing with no pressure and then really bending if you walk on it?
If it’s the former, I would wait until a few weeks without rain and the seal it, see how it goes. I probally would not remove the board to do both sides as that’s a lot of work for not much gain. Stain is weather proofing, not really structural. For that you need wood epoxy, which will run a lot more than lumber.
If it’s the latter, probally a full replacement with either deck quailty lumber if she cares, or cheaper, uglier and more weather resistant pressure treated lumber if she doesnt.
You can also try removing a board and flipping it over. It’s likely the other side is not nearly as warped if the bowing isn’t bad. Then flip them all over and seal the “new” top side.
In case anybody stumbles across this thread and has a similar problem: I’ve successfully installed two fiber connections this week and they’re working very well so far. I’m very happy!
My hardware shopping list:
Lightwin single-mode (OS2) simplex fiber with preattached LC plugs (link)
Lightwin LC/APC female/female adapter
Ubiquiti 10Gbit SFP+ modules (sold as a pair, product code UACC-OM-SM-10G-S-2)
Two Zyxel XMG-105HP switches with five 2.5Gbit, PoE++ RJ45 ports and one 10Gbit SFP+ port
The Lightwin cables have relatively short plugs with small and narrow protector caps, which is very important in my case.
The 2.5Gbit switch is fine for me because everything else in the house is 1Gbit and I didn’t want to spend three times the amount for two 10Gbit switches just yet. Though the OS2 fiber should be able to handle anything we might throw at it in the foreseeable future.
Pulling the cables with the attached connectors through the narrow pipe was a bit tricky. I used a standard pull-in string and strong, inflexible adhesive tape to attach the fiber cables to it so that there would be a distance of 2-3cm between the string and the first plug, with a thick wad of tape inbetween, and the second plug following at a similar distance. Then I applied a generous amount of lube to the pipe and slowly pulled the cables through. They just so went around the corners, but once the plugs came out at the other end it was smooth sailing.
The internet fiber plugs directly into the OTO socket on one side, and connects to the modem via an LC f/f adapter on the other side. The LAN fiber has a switch at each end.
I use Zep purple degreaser. It’s worked fantastic for all my machines. Anything you get you should avoid the fumes anyways.
You will want to pay attention to material safety data sheets. Zep in particular does not require protective equipment except for gloves( which I recommend anyways!). Also has a low rating on flammability (1)
I have no idea what a part washer is, but maybe consider using an ultrasonic cleaner.
You can then either load it with surfactants (e.g. SLS) in a water phase or with apolar solvents like cineol, terpentine or limonene, which have similar solving capabilities as diesel, but are bio based and not as flammable.
Using surfactants alone without ultrasound won’t work, but using solvents alone won’t keep the particles in phase, as they would just sink to the bottom.
If you tell me exactly how this washer looks like/ works and what exactly you wanna clean, I can help you more.
Great that you looked into the compatibility first. Many solvents can dissolve, or at least swell, parts of the machine.
The good thing is, solvent isn’t solvent. There are different kinds (polarities, etc.), and maybe something like alcohol might work.
Problem is, grease is hard to dissolve with those.
In the industry, you have special “laundry washing machines” (sort of) that work with hot solvent, e.g. benzyl alcohol, since you need movement and heat preferably to clean everything decently.
Even with a good solvent, degreasing with your washer alone won’t work as great.
I personally would go for an ultrasound bath. They tend to work more mechanically (phsically) instead of chemically, and with them, you can dissolve the dirt with soapy water pretty easily, without any volatile solvents or risks. You can get a decent one for 50 bucks starting price, or 100 if you want a bit better one.
If you’re going to run fibre, run at least a 12 core bundle, it’s probably not going to be much more expensive to run 24 as well, though, I found 12 is overkill for my house -> shed connection. If you can manage it given the space issues, pre-terminated MTP fibres are relatively inexpensive, then get yourself some MTP -> LC or SC pigtails or casettes on both ends, I found some MTP -> LC cassettes on eBay for under AUD$50, also old mellanox SFP+ PCIe cards for < AUD $40 and new SFP+ modules for 10gb fibre were $20. stick OpenWRT or OPNSense on an old computer with these cards and you’ve got yourself a 10Gb router :)
I did spend up on the ubiquiti 10Gb SFP+ aggregation switch though, which made things a bit easier!
I don’t necessarily have a solution, but it might be useful to know why you need such a big connection to the room, if you’re willing to share. Might lead to some different solutions.
I think OPs issue is a combination of available space and regulations. Little space + no copper data connections next to power cables leave little choice but fibre.
I‘m kind of in the same boat, as I would like to connect the garage and an annex building. However, the garage needs power to, prepared for EV - so, large power cable as well. Same for the annex one, in which I just want to have bandwidth available :)
Little space + no copper data connections next to power cables leave little choice but fibre.
That’s the thing. If I add anything else the house won’t pass the periodic electrical inspections.
For an EV we’re probably talking 11 or 22kW, so a rather thick cable. But you’re probably going to have it installed by a certified electrician anyway, or can you do that yourself in Germany?
Hmm, Lemmy or Jerboa appears to have eaten my lengthy reply, so here we go again:
My aim is to have my router/firewall, mail server and VM host in the shelter, as it’s the most protected room in the house. That means I need at least two lines - one from the modem to the router/firewall, and one connecting everything to the internal LAN.
The internet connection is rated 400Mbit synchronous with the option of upgrading to up to 25Gbit, though at present I can’t imagine us ever needing that much and it’s probably more of a marketing gimmick anyway, so that line isn’t as critical, throughput-wise.
The rest of the house is currently a copper Gigabit affair, though the cabling is Cat7 and capable of more, so I wouldn’t want the fiber to be the bottleneck when we upgrade to 10Gbit a few years down the road. Hence multimode looks like a good idea. The question is whether (and how) there’s a way to cut, install and connect it myself. POF would be easier but comes with a number of question marks concerning 10GbE.
This might be a stupid suggestion, but Wifi 7 is to arrive on this Dec. It’s going to allow tens of Gbit/sec. Depending on your conditions, you might just buy a Wifi router.
I honestly don’t see a reason why it would hurt if there’s nothing wired to the breaker. And it feels safer than leaving the contacts exposed since the metal cover is open on those slots. But I’m not sure if that’s the proper way.
As for the wire, I think it’s more so quality control. If it’s new and you bought it then you know it’s high quality and if it doesn’t work you can warranty your own work, but you can’t warranty old equipment. But this is another one where I can’t see the harm in using it if I am replacing a short strand of wire and it is the right length. Like I said, it’s type NM cable so it seems to be equivalent to modern romex wire, just a different brand.
diy
Hot
This magazine is from a federated server and may be incomplete. Browse more on the original instance.