koz, (edited )
@koz@chaos.social avatar

The cabinets will continue until morale improves.

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StarkRG,
@StarkRG@myside-yourside.net avatar

@koz Can your printer do resonance compensation? You could make those labels significantly clearer without sacrificing much speed.

What are you using to put the text on the front? I've seen a few methods, but it's rarely made easy.

koz,
@koz@chaos.social avatar

@StarkRG This is on the Mini, with the input shaping. That's as compensated as it gets.

I'm using the text emboss tool in Orca Slicer, and attaching it to that surface.

koz,
@koz@chaos.social avatar

@StarkRG The lack of text clarity is mostly the use of a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3mm layer height, and the fact that the Mini's Bowden makes any extrusional consistency a non-starter.

Stark9837,
@Stark9837@techhub.social avatar

@koz @StarkRG

This is one of the reasons I opted out using 0.6mm nozzles primarly and trusting Arachne, my text didn't always work well.

But doing it like are, you could make the text thicker and larger. My problems were with prints designed for 0.4mm.

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koz,
@koz@chaos.social avatar

@Stark9837 @StarkRG @3dprinting It's a bit difficult to make the text much thicker, largely due to how much of it some of the drawers need. I could possibly raise the resolution by printing at 0.2mm layer height, but that slows the print time down by about a third (as you might expect).

Stark9837,
@Stark9837@techhub.social avatar

@koz @StarkRG

But this is a great example that text is possible with vase mode printing. Normally, with text, I would print layer-by-layer.

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lytta,
@lytta@hachyderm.io avatar

@Stark9837 @koz @StarkRG @3dprinting I'm fairly certain vase mode text CAN work if it has the right amount of chamfering... but now I can't recall if I've actually done it 🤔

i imagine it's a lot harder to do with a parametric design

Stark9837,
@Stark9837@techhub.social avatar

@lytta @koz @StarkRG

Yeah, your change in layer needs to be less than the extrusion width. So chamfer is a good idea to help with the transition.

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StarkRG,
@StarkRG@myside-yourside.net avatar

@koz Ahh, that makes sense. I still haven't gotten around to try different sized nozzles. I've got them, I just need to get a better method for changing them.

koz,
@koz@chaos.social avatar

@StarkRG Hot tightening isn't particularly difficult, it's just scary. However, IME, the use case for nozzles bigger (or smaller) than 0.4 is pretty narrow. Most models are designed for 0.4s, and will fail in unexpected ways with larger nozzles. Furthermore, the quadratic cooling dropoff for larger layer heights and EWs mean that your cooling suffers hard at larger diameters.

Small ones are just clog bonanzas and calibration pain, as well as being super slow at printing anything.

StarkRG,
@StarkRG@myside-yourside.net avatar

@koz I got a 0.5 steel nozzle specifically for printing with metal filaments but when I went to purchase said filament, the company I usually go to has been out and doesn't look like they're making more.

And, yeah, I don't expect to use the 0.2 or 0.6 all that much. While I have printed several things I don't care about the look of, but most of them had threads which, I imagine, would get mangled by a large nozzle.

Stark9837,
@Stark9837@techhub.social avatar

@StarkRG @koz

0.5mm nozzles are nice. I actually used them for over 6 months, and actually forgot that I was running them. I could print 0.4mm designs faster without a loss of detail. I finally replaced it after it got worn out.

@3dprinting

Stark9837,
@Stark9837@techhub.social avatar

@StarkRG

0.6mm and 0.8mm are fun to play with with vase mode. When you are printing these organizers, they drastically reduce print time while making parts stronger.

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