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EmilieEvans, to privacy in Internet Archive is in danger

For Germean voters there is the WahloMat to help with the voting choice (a dozen of questions and in the end shows how much overlap there is with all the parties): www.wahl-o-mat.de/europawahl2024/…/main_app.html

The major issue is that if you care about CopyRight: Party A. Easier to comply with regulation: Party B. Migration: Party C. Environment: Party D.

And all of the choices (A-D) have some very removed, prominent positions that you strongly oppose and in the end, have no clue what to elect and choose the least worst option and hope for the best.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in How often do you lubricate the linear guides?

has a maximum flow rate of 22 mm^3/s which limits it to about 250mm/s for 0.2mm layer height.

Divide the number by 5 which would be roughly every 100 print hour or two weeks of printing.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in How often do you lubricate the linear guides?

Marlin has this feature (time based) but most manefacturer didn’t enabled it.

Duet doesn’t have it

Klipper doesn’t (has a time counter so you could implement it easily).

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in How often do you lubricate the linear guides?

Printers are pushing significantly faster acceleration these days with upto 50k mm^2/s and 1m/s is already real.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Printable make posting locked behind purchase?

Works for me.

It allows me to post a make.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Printable make posting locked behind purchase?

Some aspects of Printables are “wrong”. Contests are a total mess at the moment. I might make a serape post about it.

This? Looks like a glitch/bug. As far as I can tell this is only active on paid items which makes sense.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in help with clogged Mk4 hotend?

If cold pulls won’t work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.

One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don’t know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can’t be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Thanks. See the other comment for details how now performs.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Improved but still not a match to Ultimaker Cura.

Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.

With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.

fast:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/07b1a9e7-cd99-4eb8-90af-fe69a81b8641.jpeg

balanced:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/53817bf6-dab3-42ab-a925-e2f9f0b76435.jpeg

accurate:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/b14c09fe-f2c3-4aa2-836a-0389526715bc.jpeg

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/0ec3d749-8ae5-4f61-8e79-2473c884c764.jpeg

https://i.ibb.co/5Wnzkgw/prusa-heighest-2.jpg

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Default settings. Where is the option to rotate it?

Providing it manually with 90° rotated and using the auto arrange instead of fill bed: 5 pcs. Still not a great result.

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/3ae39b75-fa63-476f-9cfa-e0790b62f77a.jpeg

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.

There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.

You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).

I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.

While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.

Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)

Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.

Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.

What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.

Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…

EmilieEvans, (edited ) to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

The best protection is a machine that is well build:

We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.

Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.

If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?

Styrol isn’t a particle that settles down like dust. It is a liquid with a significant enough vapor pressure to be problematic.

An activated carbon filter can get rid of the vapor.

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