Years ago when I was building this CNC machine, I decided to design and print a NEMA23 stepper motor cover to wire the machine neatly. Today, I upgraded the stepper to an servo. All I took was a screwdriver....
For Germean voters there is the WahloMat to help with the voting choice (a dozen of questions and in the end shows how much overlap there is with all the parties): www.wahl-o-mat.de/europawahl2024/…/main_app.html
The major issue is that if you care about CopyRight: Party A. Easier to comply with regulation: Party B. Migration: Party C. Environment: Party D.
And all of the choices (A-D) have some very removed, prominent positions that you strongly oppose and in the end, have no clue what to elect and choose the least worst option and hope for the best.
I have recently obtained a friend’s old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
laser -> “special” resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.
Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can’t feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this....
If cold pulls won’t work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.
One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don’t know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can’t be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.
I’ve made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It’s an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is … until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That’s when I feel it would’ve been neat to use parametric CAD instead....
I finally got a filament drying box and I’m using it prior to and during prints. It seems to be helping. I’m a bit of a color queen, so I keep a pretty big backlog of different filaments. I’ve been storing them in vacuum bags but the vacuum bags often seem to lose some of their vacuum after a few months; the whole process...
Instead of those bags with a valve take a look a the kitchen department. They have vacuum seal machines used for sous vid cooking.
This is practically identical to the original packaging and can hold the vacuum for years to come. Leave the bag longer than required to allow it to be resealed multiple times (roughly 3cm are cut with each opening & resealing).
For the frequently used filaments place them in a drying box.
Don’t think I’ve seen this before. Don’t even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn’t find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either....
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.
With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.
With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.
There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.
You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).
I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.
NEMA23 cover with plug finally paid off: Had to replace the motor. (lemmy.ml)
Years ago when I was building this CNC machine, I decided to design and print a NEMA23 stepper motor cover to wire the machine neatly. Today, I upgraded the stepper to an servo. All I took was a screwdriver....
What is your favourite camera setup? (lemmy.ml)
What cameras did you add to your 3D printer? What is your favorite camera angle?...
Some parts I made two years ago. (3d-cnc.de)
Some holders or adapters I made moons ago.
Internet Archive is in danger (lemmy.zip)
It looks like the internet archive is needed assistance, I just heard about this today and figured lemmy could help spread this message around
Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?
I have recently obtained a friend’s old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
help with clogged Mk4 hotend?
Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can’t feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this....
How do you build complex shapes? (i.imgur.com)
I’ve made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It’s an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is … until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That’s when I feel it would’ve been neat to use parametric CAD instead....
Best options for entry level 3D printing available these days?
I’ve had access to a roommate’s 3D printer, but they’ll be moving away soon :(...
Are filament vacuum bags worthwhile?
I finally got a filament drying box and I’m using it prior to and during prints. It seems to be helping. I’m a bit of a color queen, so I keep a pretty big backlog of different filaments. I’ve been storing them in vacuum bags but the vacuum bags often seem to lose some of their vacuum after a few months; the whole process...
SBC Case Builder v3.0 can create thousands of cases for popular SBCs and standard motherboards (www.cnx-software.com)
cross-posted from: lemmy.sdf.org/post/16042365...
Printable make posting locked behind purchase? (lemmy.world)
Don’t think I’ve seen this before. Don’t even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn’t find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either....
Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet (lemm.ee)
Hey 3D printing fellas,...
Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)
Short overview of how good the nesting capabilities of various 3D slicer are....
How often do you lubricate the linear guides?
I am curious how often do you service the linear rails on the 3D-printer:...