jon_slider

@jon_slider@lemmy.world

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jon_slider,

Beautiful work! thanks for the photos

fwiw, something like that could be good for pilots that want a Red Light in the cockpit, plus powerful enought white light to do exterior walk around inspections.

jon_slider, (edited )

Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.

picture album: imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP

in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds… review album here: imgur.com/a/H9Usict

jon_slider,

MAO D2 today… Love the regulated output w no PWM

imgur.com/myH8eeb

luppano, to flashlight
@luppano@lou.lt avatar

NileRed made a video a while ago about what is the metallic smell. Like the one of copper flashlights @flashlight
https://youtube.com/watch?v=BqLH-nTZEOc&si=Fepz2Kah6-rJA-eT

jon_slider,

thanks, fun video,

Im going to tell people that copper lights smell like mushrooms… lol…

jon_slider,

my first hank light might be a D2 if I can settle on an emitter combo.

I recently bought my first Hank, a D2… its a fun little light… more details in this album: imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t

I also have a couple of TS10, and I really like them too. Here is an album w one of mine, modded to sw45k: imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP I will probably buy the Titanium model next.

jon_slider, (edited )

UV

here is a good video of a D2 w UV: www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTk1XAh8EFU

and a good review of a D2: tgreviews.com/2023/04/26/emisar-d2/

the reviews have differing opinions on whether to choose the spot optic or the flood optic… I went with the flood option and am very happy with it… (it is Not Very Floody, it just makes the beam round instead of square)

jon_slider,

well-photographed

thanks…

the secret for me, has turned out to be to take photos during daylight hours (not in the dark)… it seems to help the iPhone camera (auto white balance), to produce useful beam color comparisons, for me… Plus daylight shows what the host looks like.

the other thing that has turned out really handy as a background is my gray soldering mat… (better than white paper).

example: i.imgur.com/HuON5ib.jpg

luppano, to flashlight French
@luppano@lou.lt avatar

@flashlight I may have overheated my brass TS10. The battery wrap shrank.

I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot, and found the battery looking like that, opening the light right after stepdown (and almost burning my fingers).

jon_slider,

I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot

now that you have learned it gets too hot and has no thermal regulation…

suggest next time you want to use candle mode, that you limit your use to level 6 of the 7 stepped modes… and check with your hand after a couple of minutes, to confirm if that keeps the light cool enough

jon_slider,

I did not know at the time blinky modes were conflicting with thermal throttle.

Im glad you shared your experience, I also did not know the blinkies have no Thermal Regulation…

I may use it at full power again (while shooting), but turning it off between takes and cooling it in water.

ok, I hope that works out for you… imo, the problem is that you are using too high an output, it obviously gets too hot when you use “full power”… Candle mode was intended to be used at very low outputs… you are imho, misusing the candle mode for something that is not its intended purpose, and you are allowing the light to get too hot by not holding it in your hand.

but, if you insist… I suggest you stand the light in a glass of water, so the host will be cooled during the excessively high output…

jon_slider,

I’m ok with testing its limits

Im appreciating learning from your experience Thanks for sharing info

I respect that youre taking precautions. I think your idea to use water cooling could work well ;-)

jon_slider,

congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics

jon_slider, (edited )

thanks for following up ;-)

No, I do not yet know the correct command line syntax

I would welcome any help… here is the backstory:

I bought Hank’s programmer and am trying to learn how to ping the D2…

I dont have an Android phone, and cannot use avrdude on my iMac. I use pymcuprog and issue commands through Terminal in my iMac, to reflash Anduril on my Wurkkos TS10 successfuly.

when I use the gchart programmers for my TS10, I use this command line, that works very well:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1430 -d attiny1616

Im trying to figure out what command line to use for the Emisar D2? I think it uses a 1634 chip? I believe I need this info to edit the command line where it says attiny1616. Is that true, or does the D2 use attiny1616?

when I plug the Hank programmer into my iMac, with the pogo pins connected to the head of my D2, and I run this command in Terminal:

** ls /dev/{tty,cu}.***

the response is

** tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port**

I believe I need that info to tell pymcuprog to use the Hank programmer…

so I took a couple of guesses and modified the command line to ping the D2 like this:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port -d attiny1634

but that command line does not work in Terminal (yet), I get this response in Terminal:

Unable to setup stack for device attiny1634 Currently supported devices (in ‘devices’ folder): atmega1608, atmega1609, atmega3208, atmega3209, atmega328p, atmega4808, atmega4809, atmega808, atmega809, atsamd21e18a, atsamd21g18a, attiny1604, attiny1606, attiny1607, attiny1614, attiny1616, attiny1617, attiny1624, attiny1626, attiny1627, attiny202, attiny204, attiny212, attiny214, attiny3216, attiny3217, attiny3224, attiny3226, attiny3227, attiny402, attiny404, attiny406, attiny412, attiny414, attiny416, attiny417, attiny424, attiny426, attiny427, attiny804, attiny806, attiny807, attiny814, attiny816, attiny817, attiny824, attiny826, attiny827, attiny84a, avr128da28, avr128da32, avr128da48, avr128da64, avr128db28, avr128db32, avr128db48, avr128db64, avr16dd14, avr16dd20, avr16dd28, avr16dd32, avr16ea28, avr16ea32, avr16ea48, avr32da28, avr32da32, avr32da48, avr32db28, avr32db32, avr32db48, avr32dd14, avr32dd20, avr32dd28, avr32dd32, avr32ea28, avr32ea32, avr32ea48, avr64da28, avr64da32, avr64da48, avr64da64, avr64db28, avr64db32, avr64db48, avr64db64, avr64dd14, avr64dd20, avr64dd28, avr64dd32, avr64ea28, avr64ea32, avr64ea48, avr8ea28, avr8ea32, pic16f15244, pic16f15276, pic16f15376, pic16f17146, pic16f1768, pic16f1769, pic16f1779, pic16f18146, pic16f18446, pic16f18456, pic16lf18456, pic18f16q40, pic18f16q41, pic18f47k40, pic18f47k42, pic18f47q10, pic18f47q43, pic18f57q43, pic18f57q84, pic24fj128ga705, pic24fj64gu205, uc3a3256

(apparently my pymcuprog install does not include attiny1634)

Do you have any suggestions what the correct command line would be, to ping my Emisar D2?

Once I get that sorted, I will have the Option to also reflash to newer firmware, but that is not my priority. I just want to backup my existing firmware with my eeprom settings.

I dont really want to update to newer D2 firmware, that uses 3C for channel switching. I can switch channels on my D2 using 3H, and I like it that way.

It means I dont have to relearn a different command for my D2, when I want to switch from smooth to stepped ramping. This keeps 3C consistent with my other Anduril lights.

jon_slider,

I believe that pymcuprog is for UDPI programmers, and your Hank programmer is USBasp which requires avrdude for programming.

thanks for the education, that is very helpful

Im technologically challenged atm… my iMac wont run avrdude, and I dont have an android phone to run zflasher

you can keep current with Anduril 2 while also customizing it for your preferences if you’re willing to learn to modify the code

the apps needed to do that, dont run on my iMac, and Im not motivated to modify code

I’ve gotten to the point where I just stick with stock Anduril 2 in most cases.

I feel the same way… unless there is a hex file available that offers a feature I value, for example, I reflash the SC21 Pro, to add the lower lows available in later firmware

but I have not heard of a reason to reflash my D2… the stock firmware works fine for me, so far

much appreciate your help understanding my options, and limitations

enjoy your weekend ;-)

jon_slider,

That worked! thanks ;-)

no clue yet what command line to use to save a backup of my D2 hex file… suggestions welcome

this is the 3rd time Ive tried to reply… lemmy keeps losing my posts… hmmm

jon_slider, (edited )

I just checked with avrdude (on Linux), and I had no difficulties with pinging the device, backing up, and updating, while using the instructions over at anduril.click/flashing/avrdude.html.

SOLVED!

Thank you very much!

I was able to successfully ping and backup eeprom and hex file from my D2 with the following commands:

ping:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -n

backup eeprom:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U eeprom:r:desktop/D2eeprom-backup.hex:i

backup D2 stock hex:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U flash:r:desktop/oldD2-firmware.hex:i

Thanks!

jon_slider,

Super grateful! Enjoy your weekend ;-)

jon_slider,

Do folks find raw copper practical to carry?

I find copper too heavy for practical carry. Raw copper also creates a bad odor on my hands.

My copper AAA Lumintop Tool weighs 83% more than my Aluminium version. (both with battery inside)

My copper FWAA weighs 75% more than the Aluminium model. (both with battery inside)

I do not carry either of those lights in Copper. I started with the copper AAA model, when I was infatuated with the idea of Copper, Then I got the AA sized FWAA but I quickly learned that I did not like the extra weight in my pocket.

jon_slider,

green works better than red for reading, no doubt…

green works better than red for seeing anything: trees, trails, animals, maps, compass…

there are trade offs…

green attracts more mosquitoes than red

green interferes with sleep hormones, red does not

the argument that green can be dimmer than red is true, but green is not politically correct for group stargazing, Red is Required

jon_slider,

yes, green has become more popular with the military also, but its not because it is more stealthy… Night vision equipment uses red light sensors, and it over reacts to red lights. otoh, Night vision equipment does not have a problem with Green lights.

Submarines use Red Light to maintain Dark Adapted vision in case crew needs to look through the periscope into the dark of night. <a href=""></a>

jon_slider, (edited )

about green light, it attracts more mosquitoes: “green light was the most attractive to mosquitoes.”

about green clothing, it attracts less mosquitoes: “if you’re looking to avoid the itchy bites, researchers at the University of Washington say to avoid colors like cyan, orange, red and black. Instead, you should focus on wearing colors mosquitoes ignore like white, blue, green and purple.”

How does green light attract, but green clothing does not?

I have no idea how to resolve the opposing opinions

I can tell you I can see much better with green light than red light, I tried it myself…

fyi, I have an SC21 Pro w Red LED and an SC21 Pro w Green LED for sale:

FWIW, the combination of Red plus Green is the Best for tracking blood. Neither Red alone, nor Green alone, can do that.

jon_slider,

great info, fantastic charts, really easy to read… thank you!

jon_slider, (edited )

I also wanted to be able to keep it up to date

thanks for all your efforts, very helpful

fwiw, I just received an Emisar D2 and did a version check that resulted in:

2021 12 13 0135

it uses 3H to change channels, not 3C…

I am trying to learn to reflash the D2 to a later version, but have not figured it out yet. I also dont know which hex file to update to, yet. update, found it: toykeeper.net/…/anduril.2023-04-25.emisar-2ch.hex

Do you have a flow chart for the existing stock firmware on the D2? (I dont know what revision that would be)

jon_slider,

This would be the latest version

saved, thank you very much for all your help ;-)

jon_slider,

these flowcharts are just fantastic!

thank you very much for sharing them

I have started using them, marked up with the specific changes I make to different anduril lights I own, like this one for my Aluminium TS10’s:

i.imgur.com/YH8Eh5A.png

makes it really easy to keep track of changes I make to the factory defaults

I nominate this thread to be a sticky… Thumbs Up!

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