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EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Thanks. See the other comment for details how now performs.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Improved but still not a match to Ultimaker Cura.

Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.

With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.

fast:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/07b1a9e7-cd99-4eb8-90af-fe69a81b8641.jpeg

balanced:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/53817bf6-dab3-42ab-a925-e2f9f0b76435.jpeg

accurate:

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/b14c09fe-f2c3-4aa2-836a-0389526715bc.jpeg

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/0ec3d749-8ae5-4f61-8e79-2473c884c764.jpeg

https://i.ibb.co/5Wnzkgw/prusa-heighest-2.jpg

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

Default settings. Where is the option to rotate it?

Providing it manually with 90° rotated and using the auto arrange instead of fill bed: 5 pcs. Still not a great result.

https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/3ae39b75-fa63-476f-9cfa-e0790b62f77a.jpeg

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)

With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.

There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.

You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).

I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.

While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.

Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)

Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.

Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.

What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.

Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…

EmilieEvans, (edited ) to 3dprinting in Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet

The best protection is a machine that is well build:

We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.

Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.

If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?

Styrol isn’t a particle that settles down like dust. It is a liquid with a significant enough vapor pressure to be problematic.

An activated carbon filter can get rid of the vapor.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?

Form 2 is challenging to operate for a newbie:

  • laser -> “special” resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
  • Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.
EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in How do you build complex shapes?

Key for these models are work planes: help.autodesk.com/view/INVNTOR/2024/ENU/?guid=GUI…

other handy features:

  • loft
  • sweep
  • extrude at an angle
EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in SBC Case Builder v3.0 can create thousands of cases for popular SBCs and standard motherboards
EmilieEvans, (edited ) to 3dprinting in Are filament vacuum bags worthwhile?

Instead of those bags with a valve take a look a the kitchen department. They have vacuum seal machines used for sous vid cooking.

This is practically identical to the original packaging and can hold the vacuum for years to come. Leave the bag longer than required to allow it to be resealed multiple times (roughly 3cm are cut with each opening & resealing).

For the frequently used filaments place them in a drying box.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Best options for entry level 3D printing available these days?

There isn’t THE entry-level:

20x20cm Desktop FFF under $200

50x50cm desktop FFF $500

Toolchanger: roughly $1k

entry level plastic SLS: $10k

metal SLS: $50k

nano/micro structure 3d-printer: contact us

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Print in place ratchet design

here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6595547Likely a old version with 0.4mm clearance that does work. If not message me and I could send you a later revision with 0.23mm that definitly works.

How does it work?

one direction: pretty obvious the spring bends out, the teeth pass through the other direction: the spring gets slightly pulled/stretched (the leading tip of the teeth pushes it) which causes the tip to be pushed against the block (left in the picture) and blocking the mechanism.

In other words, this mechanism works by having a physical path for the compression of the spring but in the opposite direction when would need to stretch to move pass the teeth it is stopped by a wall/block.

EmilieEvans, to 3dprinting in Print in place ratchet design

The teeth is indeed a critical aspect. It has to be symmetrical as this assembly is mirrored to block the rotation in the other direction.

An alternative to this would be printing the spring with the contact surface separately and inserting it into this print (pause at layer height, insert part, continue print) allowing other geometries (that would overlap with the teeth if printed in place) and pretension. The downside is it’s a manual task and one more separate part to keep track of.

This is small and the tolerances of the center hub cause the teeths/“gear” to move approx. 0.3-0.5mm of centre. This means what you see in the CAD/slicer isn’t how it will look once printed. I had to narrow the gap down as much as I could to get the largest contact area. If you make it a sled on one side there is less material/surface area.

A further consequence is that the tip of it doesn’t touch anything as such you could remove the very tip to adjust the sound signature. The feeling is slightly changed but primarily this replaced the high-pitched plastic sound with a deep tone.

The nice aspect is that in the blocking position, it is a solid connection meaning it can take as much load as the teeth (tip) can support (hence the trying to maximize the contact area there). The spring element is only there to return this blocking “bolt” into position after a teeth passes through.

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