Picked up an Ender 3 off eBay after Christmas in an “brand new open box” state. Should be covered under warranty, and I shelled out an extra $6 for the Allstate Protection Plan, so I should have coverage even if the reseller drops off....
There are a lot of posts that don’t load the images in the app, but show fine on the lemmy.world website. It’s not just limited to the Garfield community. Is this a Lemmy.world issue or Boost?
This turned out to be something on my end, but leads to a question about how the behavior of the app should be.
I did some digging, turned out this was due to some certs or something on my home router that didn’t like sh.itjust.works. The web interface shows a lemmy.world mirror of the image, but Boost shows the image from the original post on sh.itjust.works.
The question is, should the app be pulling from the original source? If that source instance goes down, Boost won’t be able to show it anymore. That seems against the philosophy of the Fediverse (and the actual Lemmy website shows the mirror).
How long do you have filament sitting “in the open”? I mostly print with a single filament roll at a time, and just leave it on the printer. A 1kg roll lasts me several weeks. For long time storage I keep it in an air tight box with disiccant pouches....
Depends on where you live. I live in a desert where the humidity is often <10% and have left PETG and PLA rolls out for several weeks at a time with no issues. With nylons I’ve been a bit more careful, though I’m not sure I need to be.
+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4’s marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)
That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It’s precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.
Build process is 99% complete. I taped on the panels initially using painter’s tape so I could print the skirts and a few mods in ABS. Several mods are already in place, including Nevermore, panel clips, picam mount, Rock-‘n’-roll, and LEDs. I had a TFT50 screen sitting around from a defunct Ender 5 that I swapped with...
I have to do a fine babystep here and there, but nothing major. I think it’s mostly because I haven’t done an actual offset calibration since changing to Klicky PCB, just kind of eyeballed it with a piece of paper.
Do you have the calibrate_z macro?
Edit: Moonraker says I’ve got 130 hours on it already. More than I thought!
Yup, totally. Klicky as a concept is great, but the original design was just bad. The Klicky parts I had were from a PIF provider, so I’m confident it wasn’t a bad print job. Maybe Klicky NG fixes the issue, but to me the PCB is worth it.
Finished everything up assembly-wise. Still lots of tuning to do, but I’d say this first print looks phenomenal for not having done any tuning other than Klicky+calibrate_z
It’s a Voron 2.4r2! Bed size is 350mm square. I built it from the LDO motors kit. You can find them lots of places. Here’s a link to LDO resellers (docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_Voron_Distributors). There are other kit options, too, including West3D and Fysetc.
Yup, still much to do on mine too. Bed clips, skirts, fans, led mounts, camera mounts… It’s fun to tinker some, but I’ll be glad when it’s all calibrated and ready to print reliably. I’ve got some issues here and there with endstops I need to figure out.
Two different problems. First with y endstop, and not really an issue with the endstop, more the cables. They keep wiggling out of the nook you’re supposed to stuff them into, and that causes them to get pinched when homing. The cable is just thick enough that it prevents the endstop from triggering.
The other is Klicky, I get wildly different readings to the point where it just gives up because the tolerance was exceeded too many times. I’ve checked for loose screws, belt tension, etc., can’t find anything obvious. I’ve basically given up on Klicky and ordered a Klicky PCB kit, hopefully that will fix it.
That’s my guess with the 3kg, too. Probably need a holder with bearings. I plan on printing this holder (printables.com/…/513779-voron-horizontal-filament…) because I need something a little more forward based, I’ll let you know how it goes.
With regard to Klicky, yup, I can get it to go through the whole QGL/bed mesh/Z-calibration process and get off a print I’d estimate about 50% of the time. It’s mostly just consistency. I can probably increase the tolerances in printer.cfg, but I figure the defaults are what they are for a reason. I had trouble with assembling Klicky due to tolerances of the printed parts, and some of my magnets weren’t perfectly flush. I suspect (hope) this is causing some wobbles in the probe itself.
Interestingly I could print smaller ASA parts on my i3 clone with an ultrabase bed unenclosed without much of any warping. Granted, it was leveled way too low… my Voron has a great first layer and no elephants foot, but… it needs to be enclosed for most anything ASA and preheated for moderately large prints. Makes it hard to...
Had a few setbacks since last week, including needing to relube the belts with a more appropriate grease. Also, one of the parts for the clockwork 2 was busted. I can’t print ABS yet since I don’t have an enclosure, so I opted to print the clockwork parts in Fiberlogy PA12+CF15. PA12 is OK according to the Voron print guide...
Also got it belted up, but found out afterwards that I used a grease that is controversial on the rails (superlube with syncolor). It’s recommended by LDO and Nero3D uses it in his video, but many folks on the Voron Discourse say it’s a no-go. I’d rather not risk it, so I’m uninstalling the rails, cleaning/degreasing...
New (Open Box) Ender 3 Blue Screen
Picked up an Ender 3 off eBay after Christmas in an “brand new open box” state. Should be covered under warranty, and I shelled out an extra $6 for the Allstate Protection Plan, so I should have coverage even if the reseller drops off....
Some images not showing in app (lemmy.world)
There are a lot of posts that don’t load the images in the app, but show fine on the lemmy.world website. It’s not just limited to the Garfield community. Is this a Lemmy.world issue or Boost?
storing of filamenter bewteen prints
How long do you have filament sitting “in the open”? I mostly print with a single filament roll at a time, and just leave it on the printer. A 1kg roll lasts me several weeks. For long time storage I keep it in an air tight box with disiccant pouches....
Prusa MK4 failing X-axis test
I ran a selftest and the manual test and the X-axis keeps failing. I don’t know why....
Prusa MK4 or Bambu labs p1s
Hi there,...
EU says it can't fill US funding gap for Ukraine (www.bangkokpost.com)
Fully enclosed and ready to rock (lemmy.world)
Build process is 99% complete. I taped on the panels initially using painter’s tape so I could print the skirts and a few mods in ABS. Several mods are already in place, including Nevermore, panel clips, picam mount, Rock-‘n’-roll, and LEDs. I had a TFT50 screen sitting around from a defunct Ender 5 that I swapped with...
Screw storage for 3D prints. Still need to extend for more stuff. (lemmy.world)
cross-posted from: lemmy.world/post/5201970
How do you all keep your z home consistent?
Title basically....
On her maiden voyage! (lemmy.world)
Finished everything up assembly-wise. Still lots of tuning to do, but I’d say this first print looks phenomenal for not having done any tuning other than Klicky+calibrate_z
Chains on, and a helper! (lemmy.world)
Some below deck electronics done too. I’m so close I can smell it
The continual WIP (lemmy.world)
Interestingly I could print smaller ASA parts on my i3 clone with an ultrabase bed unenclosed without much of any warping. Granted, it was leveled way too low… my Voron has a great first layer and no elephants foot, but… it needs to be enclosed for most anything ASA and preheated for moderately large prints. Makes it hard to...
Belts and Stealthburner finished
Had a few setbacks since last week, including needing to relube the belts with a more appropriate grease. Also, one of the parts for the clockwork 2 was busted. I can’t print ABS yet since I don’t have an enclosure, so I opted to print the clockwork parts in Fiberlogy PA12+CF15. PA12 is OK according to the Voron print guide...
Latest progress on my build, and a warning to folks building their own. (lemmy.world)
Also got it belted up, but found out afterwards that I used a grease that is controversial on the rails (superlube with syncolor). It’s recommended by LDO and Nero3D uses it in his video, but many folks on the Voron Discourse say it’s a no-go. I’d rather not risk it, so I’m uninstalling the rails, cleaning/degreasing...