Since the last time I tried it, it has been polished great deal. The system is fast, stable and I can't see any glitches of any kind.
It's true that I am not the "customise everything" kind of user, so I can't tell you how easy or hard it would be to change the appearance or behaviour or the system.
Or, in other words, where are the editable directories and files that you were used to find here or there in a traditional distribution.