This is an AnyTone 578UVIII PLUS. It's currently off. The activity light is blue. That's not ever described in the manual. That light goes cyan when receiving DMR, but not pure blue.
Furthermore, it only does this like a minute after I start the car. Only if the car has been idle for some time.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here? This isn't documented, like, anywhere. It's one of those things where you search for it and it sounds like you're the only person in the world with the problem.
@mike_k Radio's off. I don't think it would be pairing anything while out cold..
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You're not 100% off though, those are bluetooth capable. But they just have an on-screen pairing notification since they're the primary. (You can pair earbuds to them, I think, at least you can do that with the handhelds, but there's also a wireless mic / remote head that they go with)
Well, my new glasses are probably set to arrive Monday. Despite the fact that they are already in the state.
I have no clue how, but every single USPS package that I order, always gets to the local post office on Sunday, and therefore gets delayed a day. Why even.
So for hopefully obvious reasons, I can't give too much specifics here.
I'm on the job site. IT contractor. Got a kiosk in a department store that needs a migration. New SIM card for the router and new hardware on the back end. I show up with my usual computer repair toolbox.
This thing is sitting half disassembled, stupidly precarious, nearly fall off the step stool every time I reach over because it's almost like this thing was set up in a location in a display stand, in such a way that it cannot be accessed
Time to replace PC. Get told by senior tech over call that you've just got to get a flathead and a hammer in there and literally chisel it loose. Uh... I don't carry those tools. Nowhere in a "kiosk replace media player PC" job do I expect to bring my crowbar, hammer, and paint can opener flathead.
I know this isn't the first one of these you've done. Next time, put that in the work order?
I literally have to use the entire extent of my arm, to reach it. The device is too close to the edge to get something in straight. And theomebt my full strength isn't pushing my prying implement in, it's forced back out.
Y'all could've told me??
On the plus side they're running stock Ubuntu Desktop on these things. Neat.
I work nights. I'm usually in bed by 10 or 11. It's currently 1:00 p.m. I'm being sent off-site to go grab the correct tools and come back, which is going to be an hour of commute. Plus disassembling everything that I put back together to get back to it. Because fuck my sleep schedule. At least I'm paid by the hour
Tomorrow I get to do something fun: I get to lick the science!
My last bottle of DD-X developer expired (quite spectacularly, I had to get a hacksaw to open it and add it to the disposal container), but I've got ONE roll of film left to process.
Instant coffee
Ascorbic acid powder (vitamin C)
Washing soda (sodium carbonate)
Two of those, are lickable. That's the delta recipe for #caffenol, although I'm using it for HP5+ not Delta, it's still effective. I could've gone with Caffenol-C-H instead but that needs potassium bromide which can't be delivered as quickly and I'm not a patient person (hah!)
To elaborate: DD-X pulls a slight vacuum when it oxidizes. This was a nearly full bottle, and I had teflon on the threads. The end result was that the plastic cap got squeezed and deformed inwards and effectively fused to the bottle, at first from the vacuum, but then it was deformed enough that even with the bottle punctured, it wasn't coming off.
Ever seen someone on the timeline, went "hey this is neat, I should follow them!" and then you see that you're already following them and that's why you saw the thing to begin with?
Sorry to bug you, @moragperkins, but if you don't mind giving me a little advice.
Got a friend with a Polaroid OneStep CloseUp (WHY does that name sound like a tech startup).. from what I can tell that's just a 600 film camera. That's the stuff that's still made, right?
Work (hellmazon) is telling us that solar eclipses are nothing new, and that even though our delivery area is entirely within the totality path, no extra traffic congestion or road hazard are anticipated and routes are continuing as normal. Just wear sunscreen and drive carefully.
After the state has started imposing travel and road restrictions due to the expected traffic volume and number of distracted idiots.
I've been up for 2 hours. I already want to go to bed.
OBS, NVENC HEVC (h.265) @ CQP-18 will get you video files with basically 0 compression artifacts
At the expense of saving an hour and a half of #Helldivers2 footage at some 60 Mbit/s, when it seems that re-encoding with my usual pre-upload standard (NVENC HEVC CRF-26) is more like... 12 Mbit/s.
The city I live in has a decent digi like... 8-10 miles north but nothing local (read: nothing I can hit with an HT)
My VHF rig has two settings: 5W and 45W
Should I set myself up as a WIDE1? I don't quite know where the boundary lies between "if there's a gap in coverage, fill it" and "that'll just cause more APRS congestion"
I did it. Not only do I have a working VHF base station, but I've gotten #packetRadio working on it!
Fun fact: My G5RV is somewhat resonant on 2 meters. I have no idea how or why but it is. (and somehow, it's better on the 440 band). Not something I'd use long term (not high enough, and still not a good match), but it's also close enough that I'd feel comfortable setitng up with it. So I did. APRS IGate (and briefly acting as a digi), a little (BBS) packet, but I also just got Winlink... funnily enough, to reach that RMS, I needed to relay through the KA-Node of the person I was sending the message to just because they have more power out than I do.
And this is the rig that I broke, broke again, and repaired!
I know, I know, 2-2.5:1 is not really that good of an SWR to be pumping RF into.
I'm (probably foolishly) trusting that a Kenwood VHF/UHF mobile from the late 80s to early 90s has some SWR foldback protection (read: I've accidenally keyed up on the band that doesn't have an antenna plugged into it like 3 times now and it isn't dead). I doubt that I'm getting a full 45 watts out by far, but it works enough to do packet with and hit FM repeaters within like 20 miles of my house. That's plenty fine enough for me!
If someone shares their personal, subjective experience on some matter, someone else will inevitably reply that either they're lying or disingenuous because they've never had that happen to them.
Man, I had a Toyota for 12 years once. Only bought a new one because it got stolen
That's odd, I've never had one of mine get stolen. Are you misremembering something or do you just have a beef with Toyota
Got my K1 cables for the #DigiRig today, meaning I should be able to have an audio I/F to most HTs. (And if they're RS-232 serial, I can program them too.) So I just did some low-power APRS testing... and sure enough, plug in the GT-5R and my 878 was decoding packets from it.
Only one issue: the AnyTone 878 doesn't PTT in the same way, apparently, so that's not doing anything. I guess that means this cable is Baofeng only... but you know, the GT-5R has "enough" filtering (certainly more than the UV-5R) and a portable APRS station is a portable APRS station. I think I can work with that.
Speaking of rigs, does anyone out here have any recommendations for a VHF/UHF rig that has CAT control? Doesn't need to have a built in sound card, just something that I can plug a DigiRig into with the right accessory cables for automatic frequency control. Bonus points if it can do SSB on V/UHF but not strictly a requirement.
The current one I'm working on getting set up has nothing (I think it's actually designed as a mobile rig), so to DigiRig it, the audio cable I need literally just plugs into the 8-pin mic socket, and then the external speaker jack at the back.... that's a bit too jank for my liking, long-term.