KeepassXC seems to register as DRM protected content (I think…) for me, kills moonlight streams while it’s up so at the very least using a password manager (which you already should be using) would be protected?
I already daily drive debian on my lab computer and laptop, guest I’ll be swapping my desktop over in the not to distant future…
At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed....
What’s your chamber temp with bed fans like? I just mounted a chamber thermistor (on the floor, I don’t feel like running cables through the drag chain right now) that I need to connect but the little thermometer module on my gantry was reading like 58 ish at 100 c bed temp, dropped to 56 ish overnight, was getting 40s before moving them to the front and actually setting up the automation macro for them.
For impromptu insulation, Cardboard works well too, I stick my filament dryer in a box during the winter so it can actually hit the target temps, otherwise it runs forever.
I have ACM on mine, definitely recommend, did need to print thicker panel mounts for them though. Those definitely sound like some decent chamber temps, I’ve had decent enough results in the 40s, I’d be interested to see where ACM + bubble insulation goes.
I have 2 doors with the 270 deg hinges with latches, but I’m honestly super interested in something like the clicky-clack for sealing, theres a slight gap between mine and I’ve not got around to making something to fill it without getting in the way. I have little tiny windows on mine https://lemmy.ca/pictrs/image/b81bdde7-2f0b-4e09-aca2-25d464e39d51.jpeg (excuse the loose cable, hadn’t printed slot covers for the lights yet, just put the covers on today) you can kinda sorta see what’s going on but Yeah, definitely relying on known good profiles and stores offsets for each of my surfaces. Tap kinda sorta makes swapping nozzles less of an issue but I still like having different offsets, textured is a bit closer and nylon is just a bit further away.
Super impressive it stayed adhered honestly, I had that happen with buildtak but not with a standard pei surface.
I’ll look at it for sure thanks! I think I was going to try it a while back but never got around to it as I figured the tap probe would handle it, found it most important to keep the nozzle clean (shocking I know considering it’s my z probe!), I had a cleaning macro before I installed the kinematic bed, might set that up again when I get around to it, need to make some height adjustments to the models as the bed itself sits higher than stock.
Windows on arm was a thing, I had a surface 2 rt about a decade ago, too bad it never felt like microsoft ever really fully committed to the idea imo, and yeah x86 apps wouldn’t run on it (though there was an emulation tool apparently, was community developed). Market was definitely there (though I’m not sure how big it was, probably a cross over with netbook users), they just fumbled it like they did windows phone in my view.
When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it’s enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening...
What kind of probe? Are you preheating before auto levelling? Have you manually calibrated an offset? I used a sheet of paper which was good enough to rough it in and then fine tuned from there. Have you followed marlin’s bed levelling steps?G29 S0 should return mesh results, plonk the reaults of that into a visualisation tool of your choice if you don’t have the ability to visualise with your printer interface (klipper does and if I recall so does octoprint) to help see if you need further adjustment. Definitely do your mesh levelling at your expected print temperatures, give it a good heat soak of like at least 15 minutes before testing, preferably longer but good enough is usually fine.
How did you manually level? I ended up doing a silicone tube mod on my prusa to get the build plate as level as possible, https://lemmy.ca/pictrs/image/79b1c122-6056-4b47-ad71-c178a98e5280.png now within ~0.1mm deviation over the build plate at 90c which is definitely good enough for me. I also moved from a pinda probe to a tap probe, induction probes are definitely fine imo, you just need to tune the offset
To be fair, I only find it needed on stuff above pla, and even then it’s often good enough to preheat first, changed my start gcodes around to preheat before mesh levelling.
Not sure if creality has a macro to calibrate the z axis, totally possible there’s a bit of skew across the x gantry, running the z axis just past its max usually sorts it on my franken-prusa, trying to adjust bed levelling with skew is a mess and made it look like the entire bed was going downhill.
12 dB is a pretty decent reduction if your goal is hearing protection, 100->88 is also bringing it to something that absolutely needs hearing protection to something that’s borderline acceptable for an 8 hour shift depending on your local laws, mine say 4 hours but still, way more comfortable to use.
Reading the article, reducing the shriller frequencies by 12db is still pretty nice, looks like it’s designed for electric blowers which are already way quieter than gasoline powered ones, already generally in the hearing safe range. 2db overall should still be noticeable though, be generally less annoying.
I have an nvme enclosure with a 256 gig drive in it, I think I partitioned a quarter of it for ventoy, rest is for regular storage. It’s really nice to have if I do family support, have any iso I need and any utility I might need on top of that. Is it overkill for my needs? Yeah, but it’s nice to have and I didn’t go for anything fancy, just a cheap crucial drive.
Interestingly, bing of all things turns up better results than Google with the same search terms, first 3 blocks are “popular results”, first is tutorial sites, second is w3 schools and third takes you to the current docs for functions and operators.
If you ignore those, the fourth result takes you to the current docs for comparison functions and operators. I’d prefer it taking you right to the official docs on the first result, but comparatively acceptable. It was memed to death but I’ve seriously found it more useful than Google these days, comparable to ddg’s results.
I did some braised ones the other week on a whim (some stock, garlic, chili crisp and balsamic, browned them first in a bit of Bacon fat) and damn if it didn’t make me reconsider cooked sprouts, I thought I disliked them cooked based on memories being served them as a kid, but I guess I just never had them prepared. Helps that apparently they’ve been selectively bred to reduce bitterness since the 90s.
That’s super irritating, sorry you’re still dealing with it.
I’m thinking long shot items now;
I realise I’ve been focusing on the heat itself, but could your extruder be skipping? There’s no grinding or dust in the gears? In really bad cases they can chew into the filament itself, I’ve had it happen moreso after clearing a clog but it still can happen, cleaning it with air and lightly oiling the gear mesh is a decent start.
Don’t think it’s related but might be worth dropping your klipper configs, specifically around hotend stuff.
Have you tried totally new nozzles? Could have a very slight partial clog remaining that keeps showing up.
Do your part cooling fans blow directly on the block? 4th layer is about when that would kick in for my config with PLA, I have socks on mine and I run stealthburner hotends on both my voron and prusa so they blow below the block, but even then you can notice and definite change in cooling rate of a hot block.
I know I brought up intermittent breaks before, klipper by default looks to do 1s input smoothing on the thermistor to reduce sensor noise which could maybe hide it, but that’s unlikely, I’ve seen it on my printers https://lemmy.ca/pictrs/image/ad6ee89f-7baa-48b0-b230-e46e572fac43.png this was on the prusa when it was running marlin still, very obvious at this point but it was having clogging and printing issues before it started to trip thermal runaway.
What sort of print speeds are you doing and do you happen to know the material your block is made of? 200 is cold to me for PLA, while I know its smack in the middle of a lot of manufacturers, personally run closer to 215, prusament’s profiles are 210 if I recall. Not something that’s going to suddenly cause you an issue though, only thought I could have is same temps with higher speeds/feedrates
Might be worth doing a cold pull to thoroughly clean the nozzle which prusa suggests pla works best for, or run cleaning filament through if you have it. i swear it’s just hot glue in filament form but man if it doesnt actually clean things up nicely when I use it for material changes.
Other thoughts, is your PID tune not aggressive enough? I’ve found that klipper will do its best to hit a target temp with minimal overshoot where marlin would run to a temperature, overshoot and then try to maintain it, if you’ve change anything in your setup at all I’d suggest retuning it with fans running at your regular fan speed, I do 250 at 50% as that’s around what I’ll use for abs and petg. Filament super dry? While wet filament can cause a bunch of other issues with print quality, I could totally see it contributing to clogging as well.
Any chance there’s some mechanical damage to the thermistor? If you’ve rebuilt the hotend a bunch of times it’s really easy to do, I’ve totally reefed down on a setscrew before and flattened one, could lead to it possibly reporting a wrong value, a crack + high vibrations during printing + thermal cycling could lead to it getting worse over time. Sudden shifts to me would suggest a problem with the thermistor itself, especially given the total overhaul you’ve done. As crappy as it is too, if I recall electrical components often follow an early failure pattern where they can have a higher failure rate at beginning of life and then drops off, for the price of thermistor cartridges it’s not a bad idea to keep some on hand just in case.
To make your life easier, Do you have a molex connector at the hotend? A lot of thermistor cartridges come with short leads and a molex connector, makes swapping them so much easier. If you don’t already have some crimpers, Engineer PA-09 is a solid pair that’ll do everything from molex to jst.
Wow yeah, that’s even more annoying then. Last ditch thing to me would be to check the resistance across th0 and compare to thb, I got ~6.28 kohms on both checking a spare board, just super strange this happened so suddenly.
Definitely look at it, totally worth doing or pick yourself up one of the tool head pcbs, I can be heavy handed and having to redo wiring bundles every time I want to change something sucks. Molex connector will work really well if you don’t go the PCB route.
As for damaging the board just by running it, the btt boards are super resilient, I’ve totally whoopsied with my octopus pro and shorted a fan header with multimeter and cut a wire I forgot was live on another. I pulled the jumpers on those headers, rest of the board has 0 issue considering the abuse it had thrown at it. I’d be really surprised if slightly dodgy power would damage 2 unrelated boards in a super specific way and damage nothing else.
I use a version of Hartk’s Stealthburner PCB on my voron and cludged an afterburner tool head onto my franken mk3s. They’re both breakout PCBs, the stealthburner one to my knowledge is passthrough, afterburner one has a thermistor and led on it for chamber temps and a hotend activity led. Totally optional and what you’ve done already is probably the more frequent things I’d change anyhow. There are fancier tool head boards, they’re effectively their own MCUs afaik that communicate via canbus, with those ones you’re running very few wires, something I’m thinking about but haven’t done yet
For me, they reduced the amount of wiring I needed to run to the hotend and make it super easy to swap components, as I said, I’ve damaged things unintentionally before (I’ll say ADHD is contributing to that) so it’s really handy. Keeps the wiring neater as well, or at least gives you a place to manage them.
Anecdotally, pretty much every time I’m searching for information on reddit a number of comments are redacted or even the op is deleted. The only reason I didn’t purge my comments is in case someone might find them helpful.
As I’m graduating college in a few weeks, I’ll be losing access to my university’s free printers and filament. I’m going to build up a home lab with a couple printers where I can make goofy little mechanical projects as well as some components for my cars and stuff....
I bounced around a couple, my goal was to find stuff cheaper than prusament that also produced nice results. i really liked the stuff spool3d in Canada sells but ended up coming across matter3d as spool3d carries some of their products. They’re way cheaper than anything I can get on amazon and I found the quality up there.
Tomb Mold does a few of the tracks on Ritual FM, I really liked that they got realworld artists to do in universe tracks. All of the stations are solid, love that they implemented radio outside of vehicles as well.
I have LOTR directors cut on my server, haven’t bothered reencoding it because I’m not super experienced with keeping hdr 10 going to h265 or equivalent. Return of the king alone is around 130 gigs across two files, jellyfin says its bitrate is about 70 mbps.
I compressed some of the 4k rips I did, all my dvd and 1080p blurays, it’s the HDR only that’s stopped me from some of them as I found I lost it with the settings I was using and I put it on the “list of things I’ll come back to later” shelf.
I recall some banding on a few of the dvd rips, probably was a little too aggressive with the settings I used, but they’re still definitely watchable
I read Martin McInnes’s In Ascension recently. What I loved about it is that it felt both intimate and sweeping. Intimate in the sense of going deep into the protagonist’s thoughts and feelings; sweeping in the nature of the things she thinks and does. Discovering and investigating things beyond all human knowledge,...
New Windows AI feature records everything you’ve done on your PC (arstechnica.com)
I found a way to keep my chamber temps up for long/big ASA prints (lemmy.world)
At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed....
Microsoft says “Prism” translation layer does for Arm PCs what Rosetta did for Macs (arstechnica.com)
Auto bed leveling on Ender 3 Max Neo
When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it’s enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening...
Students’ Leaf Blower Suppressor To Hit Retail (hackaday.com)
Every time I search for a USB key, I end up finding the ones flashed with OS ISOs! I don't have a normal key anymore lol (sh.itjust.works)
What it's like to be a developer in 2024 (sopuli.xyz)
Source
Cruciferae (mander.xyz)
[Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense.
Hi guys. Please check my previous post for any background questions, I don’t have it in me to go over everything again....
Stack Overflow Users Are Revolting Against an OpenAI Deal | WIRED (www.wired.com)
Members of the software developer community have reported deleting or altering their posts to prevent them from being used by OpenAI.
What's your go-to "Bang for your Buck" filament brand?
As I’m graduating college in a few weeks, I’ll be losing access to my university’s free printers and filament. I’m going to build up a home lab with a couple printers where I can make goofy little mechanical projects as well as some components for my cars and stuff....
Cyberpunk 2077 director thanks fans as the game hits a 95% positive review rating on Steam (www.eurogamer.net)
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What's a (fiction) book that's written intimately and will make me feel awe?
I read Martin McInnes’s In Ascension recently. What I loved about it is that it felt both intimate and sweeping. Intimate in the sense of going deep into the protagonist’s thoughts and feelings; sweeping in the nature of the things she thinks and does. Discovering and investigating things beyond all human knowledge,...
Grocery giants paid for friendly Liberal, Tory policy with decades of donations (breachmedia.ca)