quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

It feels like I've spent the whole week trying to fix a mistake I made when sharpening this plane iron. I got the angle wrong, and trying to grind it out is taking an age :(

wedge,
@wedge@woodworking.group avatar
quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@wedge if it were a bevel down plane. Yep. Would just put a microbevel on there and be done with it. But it's a bevel up plane. So this angle is critical.

pgallaway,

@quixoticgeek @wedge critical for some operations where low angle will improve the operation. High angle on bevel up can also be advantageous for the right wood grain. Sometimes you just need good enough. So you might try it and see if it works and continue your corrections incrementally next time you sharpen.

Came here to suggest wet dry sand paper on your diamond but someone suggested already. Spraying the back will stick it to the plate. I've lapped the face of an A2 No 6 blade - A2 is slow.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek If you're doing it dry you might try the diamond wet with water. It will cut faster that way.

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@firephoto I'm using lapping fluid.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek I've been there before hand sharpening things and even on my tormek with a big chisel slick I made where it took an hour on the machine to get the angle finished after rough grinding it.

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@firephoto I hope this is just A2 being incredibly hard. I have some O1 tool steel I'm planning to make things with, and I'd hate for it to be as hard to work as this.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek If it is the hardness then I guess the good news is it will stay sharp longer.

I think some people get the main angle set then just slightly alter it for resharpening so the whole bevel doesn't have to be taken down each time when sharpening. Eventually you take the time and put the entire edge back to the original angle or live with it being off a degree or so.

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@firephoto it's a bevel up plane. So bevel angle is critical.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek Makes sense, I have one, or two but they're just small Stanley's I knock the corners off things. No fancy steel there I'm sure.

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@firephoto the plane I'm working on is a modern Stanley sweetheart no 62 low angle jack. It's iron is made of A2 steel.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek I know the one I use the most is a 220 because I looked at the number yesterday, the other one is nicer looking but might just be older and the same thing. I needed a block plane and a lot of old rusty ones was on ebay so I have a variety now of small planes.

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@firephoto I have two wooden coffin smoothers. One from Sweden one from .NL. I have a long wooden jointer of unknown origin. And then I have the new Stanley 62, and. Dictum no 4. I might get a block plane for Xmas.

firephoto,
@firephoto@mastodon.social avatar

@quixoticgeek I have an old Dunlap West Germany, a Record A151 flat spokeshave, Record 778, Kunz 79 side rabbet, and the collection of block planes. I don't use them much but that can be said for most things in the shop until I get the thing cleaned up a re-arranged, and then projects on the bench can be finished or moved.

SamLR,
@SamLR@chaos.social avatar

@quixoticgeek Can you rough in the correct angle using sanding paper on a flat surface?

quixoticgeek,
@quixoticgeek@v.st avatar

@SamLR have done that. It removes material. But when I move to the diamond plate it's still not working. Even going so far as getting a burr on the paper.

SamLR,
@SamLR@chaos.social avatar

@quixoticgeek weird!

beyond that I'd be tempted to doubt the flatness of either the plate or the surface below the sand paper.

At least it looks like you're nearly there.

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