With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.
There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.
You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).
I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.
Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.
With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
I have recently obtained a friend’s old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
laser -> “special” resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.
I’ve made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It’s an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is … until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That’s when I feel it would’ve been neat to use parametric CAD instead....
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Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet (lemm.ee)
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Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?
I have recently obtained a friend’s old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
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I’ve made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It’s an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is … until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That’s when I feel it would’ve been neat to use parametric CAD instead....