rambos

@rambos@lemm.ee

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rambos,

lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing

It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn’t be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.

rambos,

Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

  1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
  2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
  3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
  4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

Little help here linux guys? Trying to figure out what distro to use

Yeah. It’s another one of these. But! Here me out! So I have some experience using Linux. Run some VMs for services I run in my home, I switched my surface book 3 (funnily enough) to ubuntu for my work computer as I was getting more and more frustrated by windows 11 and it turned out really good. Was able to completely get off...

rambos,

Ive been using 3 monitors on gtx1060, runining popos

‘My whole library is wiped out’: what it means to own movies and TV in the age of streaming services (www.theguardian.com)

*What rights do you have to the digital movies, TV shows and music you buy online? That question was on the minds of Telstra TV Box Office customers this month after the company announced it would shut down the service in June. Customers were told that unless they moved over to another service, Fetch, they would no longer be...

rambos,

No scripts and it was more like 30 hours on my side, but its worth!

rambos,

Can you explain this please

rambos,

If you cant increase chamber temp, you can try reducing bed temperature. There is a minimum bed temp you need fot first layer, but you can try dropping it even more (5C) after a layer or two. PEI shouldnt loose adhesion and you will have a bit less shrinking. Not sure would that be enough for your part tho, warping is massive

rambos,

Higher chamber temp should help and I think its the best way to deal with this issue. If you are going to try a different build surface like Kapton, consider gluing PEI sheet directly on the alu plate instead (not the spring steel sheet, just a PEI)

rambos,

I hook a filament around my neck before going to sleep. Every morning extruder pulls me out of the bed instead of using alarm. Don’t need a clock anymore and love to print in the morning anyway

rambos,

At idle, my latest 5-drive setup draws 20 watts

That’s super low. What drives do you have? Are your drives spinning down?

rambos,

If you need it for Android than try TiviMate. Its a payed app (annually or lifetime), but its the best one I found. Free version should work enough to try it out. I got lifetime and love it, but sometimes EPG doesnt work (could be issue with my provider tho)

rambos,

Oh ok, I’ve never seen something like that. Let me know if you find a solution

rambos,

3-5 espresso shots daily

rambos,

Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.

On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well

rambos,

Thanks, I ordered some Polymaker ASA recently, will try it out.

rambos,

Thx! Sounds like rly good deal, but 3 kg is not for me honestly. I dont print that much and also my spool holder is too small. 500 g spools would be better for me hehe

Not sure what EM is, but if you meant that some parts of print are shiny and the rest is matte, its probably different flow. Having equal speeds should fix that, I saw a video where they reduce max flow as solution

rambos,

I use it in croatia, but its so funny here since no one really cares. people around me torrent on daily basis for 20ish years and nobody got ISP letter. Even friends are laughing because I spend money on that lol. Its only 5€ a month and I use it for other things as well. Just get it if you can or 🤞

rambos,

Pop!_Shop

That app was slow and laggy for me. I started using app called “Software” and that one is amazing.

I don’t know why we have 2 stores preinstalled and what is the difference

rambos,

Thank you for explaining this. I was sure its the same thing with different gui, but it all makes sense now

rambos,

I just tried opening the link in Mull and it is amazingly fast. It takes only 1 sec to render after zooming in or scrolling a lot at once. I’m a bit surprised because the file is 300+ pages. But I do encounter slow PDF loading sometimes, then I download the file and open it in another app

rambos,

I dont know, I have ublock, but not using the rest

rambos,

Yeah, that will work. It sounds like answer to OPs question, but I have no clue why would someone need that unless there is no client app for that device.

rambos,

Im trying to move from windows to linux and from solidworks to freecad completely. Its not easy at all, even SW 2008 is so advanced. Im not giving up tho 😉

rambos,

Why doesn’t it just go through the center of the hole in the nozzle?

If you are asking about printing with bigger nozzle size than filament diameter, there should be positive pressure in all parts of hotend and filament is just moving slower where bigger cross section is. I don’t have experience with this kind of printing tho.

Btw, where did you find that nozzle is 2 mm? In video they mentioned printing 2 mm layer height, but that doesn’t define the nozzle size. You can print different layer widths and heights with the same nozzle. Good cross section is recommended for decent layer bond, but it looks like they are just laying the filament down with no squish.

For proper 2 mm layer height I guess we need 4 mm nozzle and 6 kg hotend/extruder lol

rambos,

Thx for the link!

rambos,

Interesting comparison with water gun, but that would be equivalent of extruding in the air (even then I see it possible if the nozzle is not way too big). Think about connecting water pipe to a bigger diameter pipe. Water would fill the whole volume and it would just move slower if flow is laminar. There is also filament infront of the nozzle while printing so that should provide resistance (plus friction in the nozzle) to allow pressure build up. Nozzle shape might be important here, but I guess they just drilled 2.4 mm hole all the way through.

I obviously don’t know much about this nozzle, I’m not trying to teach anyone, I’m just having fun brainstorming and hopefully learning something new

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