Hi everybody? I live in Norway and I find it really difficult to buy color changing silica gel balls here. I want to use it to keep and control better my filament rolls while they are stored and also to the AMS on my Bambu X1C. The only alternative I found is on Aliexpress, just a 500gr bottle. I was wondering if anybody else...
China or local reseller of China products. Pricing should be 5-8€/kg for the domestic reseller.
Don’t buy blue stuff. Buy orange gel.
Reason: Blue is the old stuff with a Cobalt-based colour indicator (CoCl2). The common indicator for orange gel is also causing cancer but not as bad as CoCl2 (technically it is suspected for the orange stuff. In reality it is just a question of time before they go from suspected/likely to they do).
I’m looking to print large-scale prints using ASA and other unsafe materials, so ideally I need something that has an enclosure or can be enclosed easily, but I’d rather buy something preassembled or partially-assembled as I don’t have time to build a RatRig.
Option 1: Like others mentioned scaling up those printers is possible. One thing: You might want is a laser cut aluminum top plate instead of item profiles and don’t use a carbon fiber gantry: the thermal expansion of the gantry and frame should be similar so milled aluminum is an option.
Some companies offer build services for these projects/printers.
2: Prusa XL is 360x360mm and prebuilt. The shipping date is early next year.
3: Used industrial printers. Expect prices between $1.5k-3k. Check that the maintenance cost is reasonable; it prints with generic 1.75/2.85mm filament and you like the slicer as not all of them work with prusaslicer/cura.
If there is a bankruptcy auction near by it could be worth going there (total cost is often bid + 2-5% fee; sometimes 10% down + net 7). The downside is you buy them as seen meaning no function test and no guaranty.
So I recently switched to All Linux, All The Time. No real complaints. But back in my windows days, I more or less realized that Fusion 360 really is That Damned Good. Basically every aspect and feature is intuitive in ways that just seem wrong for a CAD tool...
With good virtualization, it can be done. This either means multiple GPUs or buying enterprise GPUs. Some consumer cards can be tricked into being recognized as server GPU unlocking SR-IOV or the NVidia thing. This still means the VRAM has to be split making 12-16GB cards beneficial.
Long answer: Regarding Multimaterial: It’s not what you expect.
Tried multiple systems in the past and they all had one common issue: Software.
With bambulabs AMS popularity things might change but it’s janky at best. Mosaic pushed a head but in the process had to built their own slicer and as such breaking compatibility to other “experimental” parts/modifications.
The crone could be toolchanger with one mixing hotend tool: Removing the burden of mixing hot ends while keeping the benefit. Neither do common slicer make good use of mixing hotends. Neither do CAD packages allow you to take advantage of mixing hot ends. They are historically built for subtractive manufacturing with additive features being added within the last 10 years. They still aren’t made for dynamically mixing multi-materials (one might call these software-defined materials) and given how bugged Autodesk Inventor already is this probably can’t be added at all. Building a new CAD package from the ground up is cost prohibitive. Meaning all the nice demos people show of are either specialized purpose-built software for exactly this product/shape or a clusterfuck.
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Let’s talk fiction/future: E3D toolchanger and Prusa XL can do 5 tools. Let’s say 0,25 mm nozzle, 0.8mm nozzle, mixing hotend, DIN 562 (square nut) pick & place and milling spindle. As backend a filament bus-matrix (similar to what the AHB is for MCUs) with two pallet mosaic units within the path (and bypassed for e.g. flexible material) so any filament can be “routed” to any tool. This combined with a good toolchain could be a game changer. The one more thing.
Truth is this is years if not decades into the future. Assuming it will turn into reality which would be a miracle. Slicer being able to automatically optimize for multiple nozzle diameters would be a first step. From there it should be simpler (2.5D CAM could be a roadblock). Once such a machine and toolchain exists adding a 4th and 5th axis would be the next step but that adds even more complexity to it.
Worst case would be yet another round of patents blocking innovation/development of this technology for decades to come. Just like the initial Stratasys FDM patent had to expire before 3D-printing took off.
It feels like 90% of Reddit is Karma farming bots (posts and comments) to resell those accounts. Throwing in chatGPT bots & astroturfing and you probably reach 95% of Reddit.
r/place is a perfect demonstration that Reddit is dominated by bots (and admins).
Tried basic embedded tasks a week ago: Complete trainwreck.
From using I2C to read out the internal temperature sensor on a Puya F030 (retested with an STM MCU and AVR: same answer but F030 replaced by STM32F103 within the code) to calling the WCH CH32V307 made by STM utilizing ARM M4.
After telling it to not use I2C it gave a different answer. Once more gibberish that looked like code.
What made this entirely embarrassing all a human would need to solve the question would be copy-pasting the question into Google and clicking the first link to the manufacturer example project/code hosted on GitHub.
Hello, I’m a total beginner in 3d printing and I want to get into 3d printing for the sake of building small engineering projects. Considering this I probably won’t need a printer with alot of fine detail like for example small sized textures (I think). So would it make sense for me to just go for the cheapest one that...
Gone through half a dozen of printers: The ender 3 and the like are great value but they aren’t foolproof for a beginner. At the other end of the spectrum ($1000+) printer work out of the box and the factory bed leveling is spot on. To answer your question: Buying used has it’s own risks. Comparing a used (300€) Prusa Mk3 or mini with a new Ender 3 I probably would recommend the used Prusa.
Other printers you might see on the used market:
Prusa MK3 clones (e.g. fystec): Don’t. The reason Prusa works so well is because they are tested and the QC. Those clones might look like the original but might have QC issues.
Bambulab: early units had QC issues so it’s a don’t.
Once the Anet A8 is fixed it’s a respectable machine. I am always surprised to see their print quality (800mm^2/s acceleration). What made a major difference for me was bolting the A8 down to wood.
Primarily color. This is transmission measurement meaning you shine light through the sample. This could be useful for determining the effect a case has on the color and brightness of a status LED. Additionally, you can compare filament rolls/batches to each other and ensure consistent visuals. Another example is you could place a UVA sensor protected within a PETG enclosure while it wouldn’t work with SLA-printed shells. If you would use PLA you could get sensitivity into the UVB region. Additionally, you could use it vice versa: Protect for example a light sensor from UV-radiation by using SLA-printers (yellowing of that resin would be an issue so you might add pigments to it. In a nutshell, the pigments, black, absorb the light (turning it into heat) and it looks dark/colored for you. As there are “empty” spaces between those pigments it would still let “unfiltered” light through to the sensor). Other measurements can include basic reflection measurements. For this, you would need to remove the current sample holder and screw in the mirror arrangement. This is required for all the samples you can’t shine light through. Far more measurements are possible with this device. Everything you need todo is swap the instrumentation within the sample compartment.
Lately I’ve been using inland brand natural Pla. It prints so nice and I find that it adheres to the print bed really well. My go to filament brand used to be Amolen but some of these cheaper filaments have gotten so good in recent years.
My custom blend of SLA-resin has a matt surface with dark metallic color. Also, my most hated filament as it requires a deep clean between prints. FDM? FormFutura SBC: Gave me headaches but that’s noticeably higher transmission compared to other “transparent” filaments.
Reuse the bottle of the base resin. It’s mixed from base epoxy resin with additives and pigments. The issue in particular is caused by the pigments and with no good solution as everything you can do is slowing down the process. A printer that circulates it without dead spots could fix it but you might run into issues where it “sticks” to the FEP making it worse. An upside-down SLA printer could resolve the issues but they are rare and expensive. After all there probably was a reason why you can’t buy it. You can do more stupid mixtures/washing/curing for example an soft-touch surface with a hard resin but they all fail in some regard making them not feasible (that particular had just awful mechanical properties. Worse than expected.).
The budget station all need rework. Bought an Anycubic cure & wash and had to upgrade the stepper driver to Trinamic to get smooth and silent rotation. Anycubic uses the old Allegro 4988.
Additionally, they use steel bearings within the tank that rust. You might want to replace them with polymer/ceramic/glass bearings.
For resin: I am considering exiting it. Resolution is very nice but FDM is easier to handle and in my experience less/quicker maintenance. Currently considering exploring additive-subtractive manufacturing.
I started resin printing and I am wondering if you guys use a full on resperator (if so is their a specific classification you’d recommend?) Or do you just use a cloth / surgical mask?...
Look at the following image and take a second to think about how you would create a 2D sketch of this shape in CAD with the goal of recreating the profile in a 3d printed part like my end cap....
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Where do you get silica gel?
Hi everybody? I live in Norway and I find it really difficult to buy color changing silica gel balls here. I want to use it to keep and control better my filament rolls while they are stored and also to the AMS on my Bambu X1C. The only alternative I found is on Aliexpress, just a 500gr bottle. I was wondering if anybody else...
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Are there any other CoreXY printers with a bed >400x400mm besides the RatRig VCore 3?
I’m looking to print large-scale prints using ASA and other unsafe materials, so ideally I need something that has an enclosure or can be enclosed easily, but I’d rather buy something preassembled or partially-assembled as I don’t have time to build a RatRig.
Linux friendly CAD programs?
So I recently switched to All Linux, All The Time. No real complaints. But back in my windows days, I more or less realized that Fusion 360 really is That Damned Good. Basically every aspect and feature is intuitive in ways that just seem wrong for a CAD tool...
voron 2.4 - anybody with actual experience (vorondesign.com)
Hello,...
Hey Lemmy, where are my karma point?
It is nice to know your comment/post are appreciated!
Over just a few months, ChatGPT went from correctly answering a simple math problem 98% of the time to just 2%, study finds (finance.yahoo.com)
The new $300 Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro (www.youtube.com)
A question regarding the picking of a printer that fits my use case.
Hello, I’m a total beginner in 3d printing and I want to get into 3d printing for the sake of building small engineering projects. Considering this I probably won’t need a printer with alot of fine detail like for example small sized textures (I think). So would it make sense for me to just go for the cheapest one that...
What generic PETG and SLA-resin look like in a UV-vis spectrometer (420nm cutoff is the resin; PETG goes down to roughly 320nm). (lemmy.ml)
PETG: https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/b4916855-4234-47b3-8b4d-aa2aae5fc9a6.jpeg...
What is your favorite filament?
Lately I’ve been using inland brand natural Pla. It prints so nice and I find that it adheres to the print bed really well. My go to filament brand used to be Amolen but some of these cheaper filaments have gotten so good in recent years.
Next step in my 3D printing journey. Resin maybe?
Good day everyone. Been into the hobby since around 2014. I own 3 FDM printers currently....
Respirator for Resin Printing?
I started resin printing and I am wondering if you guys use a full on resperator (if so is their a specific classification you’d recommend?) Or do you just use a cloth / surgical mask?...
[Design] Let's talk about Unit Tests, Measuring, and a CAD approach (i.postimg.cc)
Look at the following image and take a second to think about how you would create a 2D sketch of this shape in CAD with the goal of recreating the profile in a 3d printed part like my end cap....