SomeoneSomewhere

@SomeoneSomewhere@lemmy.nz

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SomeoneSomewhere,

Likely a combination of past posts and a formulaic username. Watch this space.

SomeoneSomewhere,

LEDs have finite lifespans, especially when operated at high brightness for hundreds or thousands of hours. This generally results in progressive dimming.

It depends on the LEDs chosen and how hard they’re driven.

White LEDs used for commercial illumination in good light fittings are generally designed, selected, and driven to deliver something like 70% output after 50k hours. The same probably doesn’t apply to RGB products.

Don’t run it at high brightness for hundreds or thousands of hours.

SomeoneSomewhere,

In mains applications with high voltage, high inrush currents, and nasty spikes, yes, driver failure is a significant failure mode. Inside a PC has less of that (though they’re still not immune to driver failure). Driver failures are usually near-total - a total failure or flashing/cycling are typical. These are very noticeable.

It’s not the only failure mode. Degradation over time is much less noticeable, because all lights located together typically have the same brightness. You only notice when one is replaced, or there’s a set of lights switched separately with a much lower hour count.

Many modern high-end LED drivers actually have programmable options to reduce the impact of this - for example, starting at 70% current and gradually increasing as the hour counter increases and the LEDs age to maintain constant brightness, or deliberately under-driving the LEDs when a replacement light is installed so as to match the older fittings surrounding it.

Operating temperature is one concern, but also simply current per die area. A 1W LED driven at 1W and heatsinked for 1W simply won’t maintain brightness as well as a 3W LED, also driven and heatsinked for 1W.

Different colours, chemistries, and manufacturing processes also have a big impact. A lot of R&D has gone into longevity and efficiency for white illumination LEDs - less so for each individual colour. Some colours naturally just don’t last as well - generally, shorter wavelengths (i.e. blue) degrade quicker. UV LEDs are often considered consumables due to their very short lifespans.

I’ve seen a number of routers and switches where the LEDs on ports that have been in use for years are noticeably dimmer than on mostly-unused ports.

SomeoneSomewhere,

That’s what you expect from usage-related wear. If they’ve all displayed the same colours for the same time, and they’re the same type of LED, each LED will wear the same, but the different colours can definitely wear differently.

One option to prove whether it’s the controller or the LEDs is to connect up an unused new NZXT RGB item - something like a fan.

Looking for a new car under $20,000? Good luck. Your choice has dwindled to just one vehicle (apnews.com)

At a time when Americans increasingly want pricey SUVs and trucks rather than small cars, the Mirage remains the lone new vehicle whose average sale price is under 20 grand — a figure that once marked a kind of unofficial threshold of affordability. With prices — new and used — having soared since the pandemic, $20,000 is...

SomeoneSomewhere,

Big difference between buying a small car and buying a tank that costs twice as much and burns twice the fuel.

SomeoneSomewhere,

And safety. And and and…

This is why we have change review etc.

SomeoneSomewhere,

Many of these are defaults dating back to the Unix days, particularly tar (tape archive) and gzip.

Krita (KRA), GIMP (XCF), and Photoshop (PSD) save files in a lossless internal format that preserves layers etc. Every time you open and save a jpg, it gets worse, and that’s not acceptable for professional use. If all you want is to crop/draw on images, something like KolourPaint is probably a better choice.

MP4 is/was patent encumbered depending on jurisdiction.

SomeoneSomewhere,

Unfortunately, my understanding is that they mostly use screen-scraping.

Giving your account username/password to anyone but your bank is usually a breach of ToS, and they can use it to deny you compensation if something goes wrong and someone cleans out your bank account using internet banking.

They also get to datamine everything.

SomeoneSomewhere,

If the cost per TB is the same and they’re buying tens of PBs anyway, large commercial customers want fewer, bigger drives. That means fewer slots in servers, fewer storage controllers, and possibly even fewer servers.

Onboard storage on cellphones is all about how much they can charge and how many they can sell. 256GB extra for $200 is about 10x higher than the $100/TB flash storage can be gotten for.

SomeoneSomewhere,

I’m in NZ, not Australia, but…

Gas connections are somewhat common, but by no means essential.

As most houses in Aus have Aircon and heading requirements are minimal, fitting reverse cycle (heat pump) units is easy, cheap, and efficient.

Most houses don’t use gas for cooking. Using electric/induction is easy.

Water heating is the only real ‘killer app’ gas has, because most houses don’t have the power for electric continuous flow. People will have to spare a little bit more space for a tank.

SomeoneSomewhere,

That problem was solved 20+ years ago. Typically you have an element halfway up the tank, so the electric heats the top half only, but the solar heats the full tank.

Ripple, timer, or remote control can shift electrical consumption to times of lower cost (overnight, mid-afternoon) while having negligible impact on quality. A big tank will stay hot for a few days easily.

SomeoneSomewhere,

In Australia, the climate is warm enough that installing a heat pump integrated into the top of the tank in a garage or outdoors is fine.

The biggest whinge is going to be giving up that little bit of space.

SomeoneSomewhere,

It depends on the utility pricing as to what’s best in that regard, but yes, solar diverters on conventional electric-only tanks are pretty common in NZ. It’s pretty rare to put both PV and solar hot water on the same house.

SomeoneSomewhere,

Presumably it’s worth the same as it would be if you simply sold it.

Why is the cutscene/FMV problem in Linux gaming so difficult to fix?

I see it a lot in visual novels, older PC games and PC ports of older non-PC games. It sounds so trivial on paper, like… just play the video? But I know it’s not. Why though? Can we ever expect the problem to be fully solved? Right now it kinda seems like an uphill struggle, like by fixing cutscene playback in one game...

SomeoneSomewhere,

It’s not just a FOSS issue; it’s a software patent issue.

VLC doesn’t attract a huge amount of attention because they don’t really make any money and would just get forked if someone did try to destroy them.

However, larger distros with commercial backing (OpenSUSE springs to mind) often won’t directly include potentially patent-infringing packages, so you have to get them from a quasi-third-party repo like Packman.

SomeoneSomewhere,

The issue is the amount of energy produced (minuscule) and the requirement for very humid air. It’s also likely that the device needs to be colder than ambient temperature if I’ve got my thermodynamics right, so removing heat might be necessary, obliterating any gains and turning it into a dehumidifier that produces a small amount of waste electricity.

It might be another option in the pile of ‘energy harvesting’ solutions, where you need microwatts to miliwatts to power devices like remote temperature sensors, to avoid fitting ten-year lithium batteries. It doesn’t seem likely to go beyond that.

SomeoneSomewhere,

The point being made is that that means you must trust them with your private key, and you can’t have say two private keys - one for low security content they store, and one for more sensitive stuff where the key stays on hardware under your control.

SomeoneSomewhere,

With some finagling, I believe ATMegas with the Arduino bootloader can be programmed using straight serial - you just have to time the reset pulse carefully.

I don’t think you can use it as an actual AVR programmer for new bootloaders, fuses etc. though. You need a full MCU for that. If you have a spare Arduino or ATMega that is happy, you can use ‘Arduino as ISP’ to do it.

Is the efficiency of a DC DC converter Load independent? (www.meanwell.com)

I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something....

SomeoneSomewhere,

Even on the equipment where you do get a graph of efficiency vs load, the line usually only starts at 10% load - that’s where your 70% efficiency figure is for.

As noted, at 0% load efficiency is by definition 0%.

SomeoneSomewhere,

It’s not impossible. You generally want >330VDC, because you want the DC voltage to exceed the AC peak voltage, even at low state-of-charge. Expect about 90-95S.

There are some LV DC (extra-low-voltage is <120VDC) products on the market already: www.fronius.com/en/…/fronius-symo-gen24-3-0-plus

Because you’re doing a series-parallel transform, the stress on the battery doesn’t actually change. There’s less current, but there’s also fewer cells in parallel to share that current. The power-per-cell is constant.

48V and higher systems are quite common in higher-power off grid setups, and that’s high enough that wire sizing etc. is reasonable at typical domestic loads. The main gain against those is that you potentially get to lose the isolation stage between the battery and the mains. The inverter itself will still have non-negligible losses.

However, a floating LV DC battery is not to be trifled with. BMS design is tricky; I believe a bunch of isolated sub-BMSs handling a few cells each is common, with isolated comms between them. You also need active earth fault detection usually, because the pack can’t be grounded.

EVs use a separate 12V battery to power the controls to check the system is safe and communicate with the BMS, before closing a vacuum contactor to enable the HV battery. It’s likely you’d need a similar system for this.

Pricing up switches/breakers/contactors rated for 500VDC is also not very pleasant.

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