rambos

@rambos@lemm.ee

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rambos,

I was mostly joking, but to use metric system you don’t have to do much, just learn it. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting I’ll change the world aynway haha

Knowing both is useful and IMO it is the easiest for engineers and construction/production workers. For example here where I am, a lot of measurement tools have both units already (like measuring tape with meters and inches)

rambos,

I don’t get why Americans and some other countries don’t use metric system. Guys! x10, x100, x1000 or mm, m, cm, km is way easier than 🦶, ", ', mile, yard or whatever weapon you use to hurt yourself lol. I know scientists get that, but its easy for them to convert anyway. Imagine that 120 cent is 1$ haha

I’m familiar with both, but only use inch for screen size and for some specific pipes that are made in ". And yeah, the guy from the picture is 188 cm tall or 1,88 m. Don’t think anyone use 10th of the mm for that and even if they did they would probably say 1879,6 mm

rambos,

I dont have the same usecase, but BookStack will check most of your boxes

rambos,

You can setup Syncthing to share a folder between moltiple devices and than use any text editor. Its not exactly what you asked for, but worth checking

rambos,

2W is insane. I wonder how much it actually drains from the wall.

My server idles at 30-35W and turning it off for 6 hours at night (cheaper electricity) would save like 4€ a year. Its cheap here tho

rambos,

I wonder where that extra 5 is coming from

Most likely PSU efficiency because they are bad on super low power. Still insane, 7W is nothing

rambos,

If you are testing upload speed better try with public torrent since it is much harder to seed on private trackers.

I dont use seedbox, but kinda happy with airvpn

rambos,

Walking into CD shop and buying album was something I couldn’t afford as 15y old

Auto bed leveling on Ender 3 Max Neo

When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it’s enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening...

rambos,

I see the mesh, but cant tell what is wrong with it. Is your mesh about the same every time after running ABL? If you check any point on the right side, do you think your bed and nozzle are at the same distance after every ABL run, but sensor reading is wrong on that side?

Basically you have to identify is your sensor faulty, otherwise your bed or X gantry might be moving in Z over time. Faulty sensor can be fixed or replaced or just go to manual mesh leveling.

I would try probing the same point multiple times in a row and see what difference you see in readings. You could also do a manual mesh and compare it with auto bed mesh.

Move nozzle close to the bed, disable XY motors and move nozzle around while observing the gap. 0.1 mm variation can be seen by naked eye (alternative to paper method) and you have 0.6 mm according to your mesh.

Use a metal ruler (or something flat) and a light to confirm how much and where is bed bent, again visual inspection.

rambos,

You get different map every time? Maybe your sensor is not trigering consistently? Is it wobbly? Hopefully its the sensor issue, otherwise its probably hardware issue (X Gantry or bed).

the right side of the bed is always printing too close

If the height diffetrence is always the same, you can try manual bed mesh leveling (sensor not even required). Create one map and load it every time. You can also just eddit existing map if you know what is wrong.

rambos,

It doesnt happen often ofcourse. It is super rare, but there are many horror storries on google. I think the biggest reason for fire hazard is a kitchen stove, still most people dont have any protection even there (including me).

These cans cost like 2-3 kg of filament and hopefully they will never be used and end up like a “waste of money”. Im spending money on this hobby anyway and this upgrade might help me sleep better 😁

Sorry for anxiety my friend

rambos,

My printer is behind shelly plug as well and I was thinking I could mount temperature sensor and smoke detector that shuts down printer through homeassistant and alarming me if needed. Testing and trusting that automation might be difficult tho. I do have camera as well, but that thing wouldnt help if shit happens while im in the deep sleep. Extinguisher would live on top of that.

rambos,

This one would be more difiicult to mount in my cabinet, but the main reason Im eying can type is that I found multiple recommendations and also that thing cant be activated without flame afaik.

Im glad that people in this community dont have much experience with these, but that makes it more difficult to find the best product

rambos,

Thx for sharing. Usefull information

rambos, (edited )

Thx for input.

I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that

‘My whole library is wiped out’: what it means to own movies and TV in the age of streaming services (www.theguardian.com)

*What rights do you have to the digital movies, TV shows and music you buy online? That question was on the minds of Telstra TV Box Office customers this month after the company announced it would shut down the service in June. Customers were told that unless they moved over to another service, Fetch, they would no longer be...

rambos,

No scripts and it was more like 30 hours on my side, but its worth!

Little help here linux guys? Trying to figure out what distro to use

Yeah. It’s another one of these. But! Here me out! So I have some experience using Linux. Run some VMs for services I run in my home, I switched my surface book 3 (funnily enough) to ubuntu for my work computer as I was getting more and more frustrated by windows 11 and it turned out really good. Was able to completely get off...

rambos,

Ive been using 3 monitors on gtx1060, runining popos

rambos,

Can you explain this please

rambos,

Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

  1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
  2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
  3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
  4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

rambos,

lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing

It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn’t be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.

rambos,

Higher chamber temp should help and I think its the best way to deal with this issue. If you are going to try a different build surface like Kapton, consider gluing PEI sheet directly on the alu plate instead (not the spring steel sheet, just a PEI)

rambos,

If you cant increase chamber temp, you can try reducing bed temperature. There is a minimum bed temp you need fot first layer, but you can try dropping it even more (5C) after a layer or two. PEI shouldnt loose adhesion and you will have a bit less shrinking. Not sure would that be enough for your part tho, warping is massive

rambos,

At idle, my latest 5-drive setup draws 20 watts

That’s super low. What drives do you have? Are your drives spinning down?

rambos,

I hook a filament around my neck before going to sleep. Every morning extruder pulls me out of the bed instead of using alarm. Don’t need a clock anymore and love to print in the morning anyway

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