My OS is on a 512gb M.2 drive, but the main storage on my laptop was a 1TB HDD, it started making noise about 2 weeks ago so I backed everything up onto a 1TB SanDisk USB SSD. This afternoon it got very clicky when I booted it up after work and icons for a few games I had stored on it, like KSP and YUZU, disappeared from the...
Like others said, depends what is your budget. If I was buying a printer now I would consider Bambu lab P1S or Sovol SV08.
I’ve never been a fan of propertary printers but friend of mine got bambu lab p1s and that thing is a beast. Idk how good SV08 is, but its actually cheap Voron v2.4 so deffo promising
Yeah I hope as well, but I don’t think that will happen honestly. The thing is about low price of bambu (and other chinese brands)…it’s just too cheap IMO. Self sourcing parts would cost much more and on top of that bambu comes assembled and tuned. I know many people nowdays think 1k printer is expensive, but it just makes no sense having smartphone prices in the same range as 3D printers (with touch screen, wifi, camera,…). Just my 2c
Its feels like mix of Crimsonland (PC) and Meteor Blitz (Android), both amazing games. I love brotato, thx for the comment. Im still trying to figure out how much is it pay to win tho
Every time I wake up PC from sleep I have to go to bluetooth settings -> select device -> enable connection to get sound on bluetooth speakers (Anker Soundcore). Bluetooth came with MBO and drivers were working out of the box after PopOS install....
Thx! I could enable/disable bluetooth with your commands and that didn’t solve my problem, but helped me google the right command. It is actually much simpler that I thought, I just had to find speakers MAC and I can use:
Thank you! I use GNOME, but this is kinda confusing tbh. I was also looking at this forum post where I should put a script in /lib/systemd/system-sleep/. I should play around with that, but can’t afford breaking system right now xD. Will try it soon, I might install separate OS just for testing
Hi all. This is an update to this post. I don’t know what else the community can do to help, but I figured I’d throw some more content up there and give something bored people to look at....
Looking at the filament part that was in the extruder and in the nozzle might help identify an issue or exclude some other possible issues. Also, looking at hotend and extruder and motherboard might be usefull here.
Do steppers need to be tuned over time?
No, but its worth to check at this point. Stepper drivers can die, overheat, cable can be damaged, motor can be damaged, overheat… If stepper was tuned to barely push the filament and something added extra resustance (friction) it might explain why issue started. If driver is overheating you can probably just add a small cooling fan or even a heat sink. Why I go in detail here? Because if something happens every time after about the same amount of time, it sounds like overheating issue, especially stepper driver, but I might be wrong. If filament was well grinded by extruder teeth, the issue is probably somewhere after extruder
Bonus question: did you check filament diameter and how consistent it is?
Ok, then I don’t think it’s overheating, but imagine your stepper driver is set to too low current:
While extruding there might be extra friction involved in the heat break which can suddenly become too much for extruder. Solution is to increase stepper driver current (it can be software approach - klipper, or HW - small screw pot on the driver itself). Stepper motor is heated according to the current you’ve set, almost not related to the speed of the motor. In my experience extruder stepper motor is usually hot to touch, so that might be another reason to check stepper driver settings.
Maybe adding heat break requires to adjust stepper driver current in your case. Or maybe FW update changed the values. Its just a guess, but its not hard to check that. Basically you reduce the current to have obvious skipping, then boost current untill skipping stops, then increase a bit more to be on the safe side, then check is your motor or stepper driver too hot (its usually hot enough to be able to hold a finger on the motor for few seconds only).
I think it’s best to spend enough time on extruder first and not moving to hotend before you are completely sure extruder is working fine. Stepper motors are quite powerfull, extruder can usually grind the filament or push the bowden tube from its position before stopping, even when clog occurs)
Im using wireguard VPN. You have to setup VPN server (using your DynDNS address, but duckdns in my case), open wireguard port in your router and configure each device that needs access. Reverse proxy is not needed, but I have it so I can use jellyfin.example.com instead of 192.168.100.40:8096. I use NPM (nginx proxy manager) with awesome GUI that can create lets encrypt certificates. I also use piHole for local DNS server
Not sure is it same, I don’t use tailscale, but using pure wireguard. In my experience battery drain is not even noticable, but staying connected is not smooth as I’d like. I tried to keep active VPN all the time, but then sometimes I just notice my internet is not working ( I have disable or restart VPN connection). It could be issue with my phone (Android), missconfig or something else, but I switched to manually enabling VPN every time I need it. Not amazing, but few clicks every now and then is more than acceptable for my use case
First time im not completely sure how to proceed with update. This part is unclear to me:
Unfortunately there isn’t a “proper” way to export a docker volume. The recommended method is to mount the volume and the directory (you want to copy your data to) to an arbitrary container, get a shell inside that container and copy the folder manually.
I know how to stop the container and dump db, but need some help here
I believe its something simple, like heater wire losing contact or stepper driver overheating. After reading your post and even all the comments, I could ask you a lot more questions like:
Where does clog happen? Is it between the nozzle and the heat break? Did you try cold pulls and do you have a picture of filament end? How do you identify a clog? Is it just clicking noise from extruder? How do you fix a clog? By replacing nozzle? How hot is your extruder motor and stepper driver? Do you have a cooling fan on steper driver? Have you ever adjusted stepper driver vref? Did you tighten the nozzle while heated? Did you try tightening more (don’t brake it)? Is extruder fan working properly? What retraction settings do you use? Does your bowden tube have any play at both ends? Why dont you PID tune your hotend (its important especially after upgrading hotend)? Did you try printing at higher temp like 210-220C? Did you try extruding without hotend (like disconnecting bowden tube and running filament trough extruder)?
Before you answer the questions, I think you should try just extruding (low speed) at higher temp like 210C until the issue happens, then check how hot is the extruder motor and steper driver, also try pulling out the filament at (lower temp) and inapect it. Inspect the extruder and extruder gear marks on the filament. Would be nice if you report here with pictures
At this point the hot end has been disassembled, cleaned and reassembled probably close to 50 times in the last 2 weeks. It’s been done cold while disassembled, hot on the printer, after the nozzle has been torched from cleaning, you name it. Both nozzle and heat break are as tight as they can be.
Its important to tighten nozzle properly. Tighten it, heat it up, tighten more, done. Both heat break and a nozzle must be clean. It’s the only way to achieve a good seal.
I’ve read your update in OP, how did it clog in the heat break? Do you have a picture? Can you run the same test without heat break, just extrude cold filament in the air (no bowden tube). That test would show if your extruder is working properly. I still think you might have stepper driver or motor overheating. If the test doesn’t fail it would mean you should look into bowden tube/heat break
Based on a true story (lemmy.world)
My OS is on a 512gb M.2 drive, but the main storage on my laptop was a 1TB HDD, it started making noise about 2 weeks ago so I backed everything up onto a 1TB SanDisk USB SSD. This afternoon it got very clicky when I booted it up after work and icons for a few games I had stored on it, like KSP and YUZU, disappeared from the...
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Hi all. This is an update to this post. I don’t know what else the community can do to help, but I figured I’d throw some more content up there and give something bored people to look at....
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