oCDo, to Vanlife
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🌳🌲🌳 B last entered the Whirinaki Forest in the early 1980s, on a high school field trip, counting seedlings and making observations with pencil and paper as a junior member of the school’s ecology club. With the aid of digital technology, we can share the 👁️ sights and 🔊 sounds of this ancient forest with you.

👀 More? See https://curiositydrive.org/2024/01/15/into-the-forest/

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

oCDo, to Vanlife
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(2/2) Peach Cove & Te Whara Tck. Once below the summit enveloped in ☁️ we had hazy views from Bream Head | Te Whara towards Hen & Chickens Is (📷1). After a rough & slippery descent the remains of a wartime radar station can be seen before continuing on towards Ocean Beach (📷2). Lifeguards are on duty here during the summer months (📷3). The 9.3km loop took us 4.5h (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

White sandy beach disappears into distance—due to both extended length and reduced visibility
Lifeguard station on white sandy beach; in background people ascend a steep sand dune
Topographic map & GPS track of our route

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Back on the road after 🎄 with family/ T-out for life admin & a bout of 🦠 Covid.

Whangārei Heads owes much of its distinctiveness to the extinct volcanoes that shape its skyline. Mt Aubrey at 216m, seen from McLeod Bay (📷1). Mt Manaia at 420m, seen from Urquharts Bay (📷2). WWII gun emplacement at Home Pt on Busby Head (📷3), w/ mural inside battery observation post (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

“Mount Manaia is the tūpuna/ancestor and chief of Ngātiwai and many Iwi and hapū (sub-tribes) of not only Whangārei, but the Northland region. The craggy peaks represent his family who were turned to stone through karakia (ritual chants) in a dispute over the infidelity of his wife.” (DOC)
“Building coastal defences daring WWII was a huge undertaking. In 1942, virtually all building materials and available labour were directed towards this task. This emplacement, which cost £3,450 to build, included wooden accommodation huts as well as the concrete buildings you see today. The Bream Head gun only ever fired three test shots. Apparently, one of these travelled a massive 12 miles although the rated range was only 17,000 yards. The complex was carefully designed to look likel a farmhouse with out-buildings. The 'house' was actually the armoury and accommodation for the officers. The battery observation post was disguised as a rocky outcrop. The building site was blasted into the rear of a boulder, and small rocks cemented onto the roof completed the effect. The gun emplacement itself was supposed to blend into the hillside, due to a camouflage net fastened onto steel loops embedded in the walls. Armament: The battery was allocated a US 155mm field gun, which ended up at the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea (inside the ship that was carrying it). Instead, a 5-inch 51 calibre US naval gun was installed. The gun was a standard secondary armament for US warships, built in 1912/13. It was quick firing, designed to counter fast-moving destroyers and torpedo boats. There was a limited supply of 5-inch ammunition available, which is why this gun emplacement does not have the usual magazine.” (DOC)
“This Battery Observation Post (BOP) is special because of the mural painted on the concrete above the window. This is a rare survivor, one of the last military murals in the country. The mural was painted by soldiers rather than artists. The subject is a panorama of the view through the BOP windows measured off in degrees. Its purpose was to allow those directing fire to quickly estimate the bearing of a sighting. The symbols painted on the window frame are to aid with semaphore signalling, a low-tech communication system using hand-held flags representing particular letters or numbers. The painting is a snapshot of the Whangarei Harbour in 1942, when there was no oil refinery and few houses. The armoury and officers accommodation building is painted in the right-hand corner, disguised as a farmhouse. Painted directly onto concrete, the mural was never meant to last. In 1995, it was painstakingly restored by art conservators. They cleaned the fragile surface, consolidated the paint layer, and re-touched areas where paint was lost. The building was made weather-tight, with polycarbonate windows and a door, in an effort to protect the mural.” (DOC)

oCDo, to Travel
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A view into Mātiatia Bay from the 3km/ 90min Mātiatia Headland Path (📷1); #Auckland’s Sky Tower is 21km as the crow flies from Waiheke’s Mahuehue Point. On that path we came across this orange #fungus—a spectacular rustgill/ Gymnopilus junonius (📷2). From Little Oneroa Bch another short path to the point affords views back into the secluded cove below Ocean View Rd (📷3); a lookout peers into Sandy Bay (📷4).

🚗 #Travel #RoadTrip #Nomad 🇳🇿 #Aotearoa #NZ #NewZealand 🤔🌲🧭❤️ #CREWmission 📷 #Photography

Orange-coloured mushroom-like fungus
A sandy cove with rocky outcrops either side separating it from Little & Big Oneroa Beach; red pōhutukawa flowers in foreground
A yacht in foreground l; small sandy beach across the bay behind it, backed by trees & homes

oCDo, to Travel
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Waiheke’s Stony Batter fort was built in WWII to defend #Auckland against feared Japanese invasion (a sub did launch aerial recon & a German raider mined the Gulf). Excavated by hand, the base housed ~200 soldiers & labourers under strict secrecy. A DOC concession allows $ entry into restored tunnels & chambers; free to walk around 8M yr old basalt boulders above. The 9.2” naval guns had a range of 34km.

🚗 #Travel #RoadTrip #Nomad 🇳🇿 #Aotearoa #NZ #NewZealand 🤔🌲🧭❤️ #CREWmission 📷 #Photography

Colour illumination of concrete-lined tunnels; this one descends 7 stories to the bombproof plotting room 200m below ground
The red line on this chart marks the range of the 9.2” naval guns; target positions were plotted by combining information from several data sources
2 of 3 planned naval guns were installed; this is No. 3 gun position, which was never completed to save costs once it became clear the tide had turned against Japanese advances

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Market offers street foods, produce & displays of artistic flare, such as the steampunk-inspired creations from the workshop of an “Old Coot” (📷1) & upcycled metal sculptures that Bruce has been forging for 12 years (📷2). In , Russel bends spoons into a stunning kōtare form (📷3) & the “Nut Job” ice cream donut at Hamish’s is a work of art in its own way (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Petrol tanks upcycled into penguins
A kōtare/ sacred kingfisher made of spoons, resting on a wood & steel bull rush
Donut, ice cream, marshmallows, Maltesers, 100s & 1000s, nuts and sauce. How’s your blood sugar?

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Ward Beach on the eastern coast hosts one of our favourite NZMCA park-over properties; there’s no ⛺️ camping in the adjacent reserve (📷1). The sway of NZ bull kelp/ Durvillaea antarctica with the sea swell is mesmerising (📷2). Spring beach & shore decorations include yellow-horned poppies/ Glaucium flavum (📷3) & naturalised bunnytail grass/ Lagurus ovatus (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Leathery bull kelp is green, large & tough; an incoming swell makes the long strands dance to the rhythm of the tide
Yellow-horned poppies/ Glaucium flavum have four golden petals and the plants leaves have a furry crinkly appearance
Bunnytail grass/ Lagurus ovatus is no named due to it’s physical resemblance to the tail of a rabbit

oCDo, to Vanlife
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🚴‍♂️ Cycled a mix of Te Araroa, Alps 2 Ocean & local cycle trails around Lake Tekapo; see www.tekapotrails.nz. Willow Bay (📷1). 🌲 Pine cones on Takapō Regional Park trails were hard to ride over! Tekapo River & Control Structure/ SH8 bridge (📷2), seen from Cowans Hill Trail. Further up the hill are many tarns (📷3) & good views over the Mackenzie Basin & adjacent ranges (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

A concrete dam/ control structure across the residual Tekapo River; the lake is seen beyond; green vegetation including pine trees to either side
A tarn set in tussock grassland, upon which two Canada geese rest; mountain range beyond
Multiple tarns in tussock grassland, which is edged by the foothills of adjacent mountain ranges

oCDo, to Vanlife
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(2/2) Bannockburn Sluicings, Cromwell #Otago. The loop walk overlooks several vineyards nestled along the flats beside the flooded Kawarau River—part of Lake Dunstan & seen here with purple thyme (📷1) & red sorrel in foreground (📷2). The original ground level of the Carrick (alluvial) Fan indicates just how much gravel was shifted (📷3). An example exploratory dig (📷4).

🚐 #VanLife #Motorhome #CamperVan #RV #Travel #RoadTrip #Nomad 🇳🇿 #Aotearoa #NZ #NewZealand 🤔🌲🧭❤️ #CREWmission 📷 #Photography

Red tinge to grass due to red sorrel in foreground; orderly vines in mid distance with ranges in background
Original ground level to left & right of frame; a path crosses the remains of gravels blasted away in search of gold
A tunnel into an exposed gravel face; with a tin pan inside & thyme growing outside

oCDo, to Vanlife
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After a last look at (fully exposed) Mitre Peak (📷1) in Milford Sound, back to DOC’s Cascade Creek Campsite. A pleasant evening (📷2) was followed by a pleasant morning (📷3); these views from pitch are hard to top. We made a third attempt to find the elusive mohua that lives in the beech forest here; only the NZ robin/ Petroica australis was breakfasting in public (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Golden clouds over snow-capped peaks at sunset; view through van window from pitch at DOC camp; smaller camper vans visible in mod distance
A waterfall drops through bush on the mountains overlooking camp
NZ robin on branch, with worm in mouth

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Milford Sound | Piopiotahi cruise (6/6), . Perhaps the most enduring memory of a Milford Sound cruise won’t be of specific features, nor anecdotes told to tourists, but of the sheer cliffs. Looking upwards from the foot of a 2,000m wall of rock that disappears into the clouds can’t help but rescale your world. Amazing plants manage to cling to smallest footholds.

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Mountain sides don’t come any steeper than this
Close to vertical rock walls
A photo can’t do the view justice; this wide shot attempts to capture a 2000m rock wall the ascends from the sound into the clouds; vegetation clings to it in seemingly impossible footholds

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Milford Sound | Piopiotahi cruise (5/6), . Harrison Cove is a safe harbour, flanked by dark shape of 1,302m The Lion (📷1). Some tours call at the underwater observatory here, while others have an overnight option. Mt Pembroke at 2,015m & it’s glacier sit behind (📷2). The steep Mitre Peak at 1,683m is iconic (📷3); we got only a fleeting look at the summit (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Closer view of Mt Pembroke & its glacier
Mitre Peak: an iconic upside-down V shape
The peak of Mitre Peak, emerging from cloud

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Taieri River Track is 4.5km to picnic area, or 3km/ 1h to a seat with views (📷1). Initially only few glimpses of the river (📷2). As it was slippery we stopped at the seat, before a steep descent. View upriver to Māori Leap w/ Pseudopanax ferox in foreground (📷3) & downriver toward sea (📷4). Met 5 large 🐕 (none allowed); must terrify wildlife—when not maiming or killing it.

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Flowering gorse foreground; dirty river (after/ during rain) curves around bend
Fierce lancewood right of frame; the point of Māori Leap juts out into path of river
Pasture atop lower banks with view out to sea on horizon

oCDo, to Vanlife
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More images from Pūrākaunui Inlet, Ōtepoti/ . A still evening as the tide returns (📷1). Elevated view from green fields of a muted sunset (📷2). Telephoto view of boat sheds reflecting in fading light, Mapoutahi Pā beyond (📷3). Sacred kingfisher/ kōtare/ Todiramphus sanctus, looking for estuarine edibles on the morning tide (📷4); earlier observed dispatching 🦀 crab!

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

View from green fields over estuary with tide in; weak orange glow in sky as sun sets
Boat sheds reflected in still water of estuary; headland of Mapoutahi Pā beyond
Sacred kingfisher/ kōtare/ Todiramphus sanctus perched on rock, looking into water

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Pizza night at Gentle Annie!

  1. Collect driftwood 🪵 from the beach🏝️ using barrow (📷1)

  2. Light fire 🔥 to pre-heat brick 🧱 oven base for 2h (📷2)

  3. Meanwhile make dough & allow to rise; add toppings 🍅

  4. Push aside embers, brush off bricks & insert pizza using paddle (📷3)

  5. Cook (rotating with paddle) for about 5 min then enjoy 🍕 with a beverage of your choice 🍷(📷4)!

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Pizza oven raised on stone foundation, with a fire set in the centre of the brick base
Pizza on paddle being introduced to wood-fired oven
The product: tasty if a little deformed

oCDo, to Vanlife German
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Lake Rotoroa (“long lake”) is largest lake in Nelson Lakes NP; water taxi runs from jetty (📷1). View south down lake to Maniniaro/ Angelus Peak 2,075m in the Travers Range to E; Mt Misery 1,601m to R (📷2). On western shore, Braeburn Walk 5km/ 1.5h thru beech/ podocarp forest (📷3) leads to waterfall. Source of Te Kauparenui/ Gowan River (📷), draining lake into Buller River.

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Snowy ranges to south end of lake; vegetation in foreground
Vegetation reflected in still lake water
River origin shows clear water in alpine setting

oCDo, to Vanlife
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🎵 “If it weren’t for your gumboots where would you be?”* The devil apparently left theirs either side of road nr. Rockville in Golden Bay. The Devil’s Boots are made from 34–24M yr old limestone that has eroded into upside down gumboots. Here’s our vanship “Curiosity” between them for scale. Rd to Aorere Goldfields hell.

*Fred Dagg’s kiwi folksong: https://youtu.be/pvtf90ASj5I

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Right gumboot in rock
Gumboot either side of road with large motorhome between them

oCDo, to Vanlife
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(4/4) Abel Tasman NP, Torrent Bay/ Rākauroa to Onetahuti. A stunning introduction to Onetahuti beach (📷1). Off the beach’s south end, Tonga Island contributes to the Tonga Roadstead/ sheltered anchorage (📷3). Views north (📷3) before our taxi pick-up (📷4). A 46km journey over 6h 20m, of which 14km/ 4.5h hiking—but felt under time pressure, meeting taxi with only 3min left!

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Small island off headland at south end of beach
Beach curves away into distance, meeting a headland on horizon
Water taxi has extended boarding ramp to keep passenger’s feet dry

oCDo, to wellington
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’s Whites Bay (📷1) is named for a black whaler, Black Jack White, who arrived in 1826 to live with Māori. In 1886 the first telegraph cable linked South Island here to North Island’s ; the cable station was restored in 1977 (📷3). Black Jack Track is a 4km loop that begins climbing from the E end of the bay (📷3); it has views into Port Underwood (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Heritage architecture in the form of a cable station; a sign out front provides a historical note
An elevated view of Whites Bay, showing the pine forest through which the track to Rārangi passes
Scrub-clad coast with flowering gorse; a large harbour entrance in distance

oCDo, to Vanlife
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Uplifting of Ward Beach during the 2016 Kaikōura quake changed the course of the Flaxbourne River (📷1), exposing bedrock. Crossed it & walked 4km south to Needles Point (📷2), which features limestone pillars (~1.5h walk thru loose gravel). Banded dotterel (Charadrius bicinctus) owned the beach (📷3), swallow (Hirundo neoxena) the sky & seals were threading the needles (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Limestone outcrops at Needles Point
Dotterel with banded chest markings on beach
Limestone needle with seals at its base

oCDo, to Vanlife
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(2/2) The 2km/ 40min walk from Waikari to the rock art in Weka Pass Historic Reserve is a little steep & muddy in winter; being enveloped by low cloud (📷1) merely added drama to an already dramatic limestone landscape (📷2). By the time we reached the rock art shelter (📷3) it had brightened up, so the Southern Alps we’d not seen at all on the hill ascent were revealed (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Limestone pillar with cabbage tree on top; limestone cliffs beyond partly hidden by cloud
Rock art shelter/ limestone overhang in cow paddock; rocks in foreground; farmland behind
Eerie light breaks over Southern Alps; pastures roll out towards them

oCDo, to Travel
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Transitional Cathedral is an interim place of worship while work to reinstate the Cathedral in the Square is underway (damaged during 2011 quakes). Also known as the Cardboard Cathedral for it’s construction using locally-made cardboard tubes (with pine beam reinforcement inside). Features shipping container alcoves & polycarbonate cladding to keep water out!

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

A version of a stained “glass” window
View of ceiling vault constructed from cardboard tubes
Section of cardboard & polycarbonate cladding

oCDo, to Travel
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Even on a chilly winter day Le Bons Bay on Banks Peninsula gave off good vibes, offering a nice beach, sandy creek & pine forest walk (📷1). Okains Bay is not dissimilar, with a cave near the beach & mussel-encrusted remains of a jetty (📷2). On the southern side, a view to Akaroa Harbour entrance from Wainui Main Rd (📷3) & view across the harbour to Akaroa from Wainui (📷4).

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Mussels on remnant jetty poles in wet sand
Green grazing fields with sheep & harbour entrance on horizon
Stoney beach with view of settlement across harbour

oCDo, to brisbane
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Attended the 2023 Let’s Go Caravan & Camping Supershow at Showgrounds; the largest caravanning event in the state. Something for everyone from expedition vehicles (📷1), hybrid trailers that transform into larger accommodations (📷2), compact 2-person 4WD motorhomes (📷3), to retro-style caravans (📷4). Quite different from European shows: here the off-road capable caravans dominate—the terrain is much tougher.

🚐 🦘 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Hybrid trailer with outdoor kitchen
4WD motorhome
Retro caravan style

oCDo, to photography
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Lyttelton “hoons” (typically young male drivers) did wheelies in car park nr. freedom camping spot in the wee hours. Shopkeeper told us it’s a frequent problem, as is car theft. Still, some heritage architecture (📷1–3) to admire. Pie lovers will appreciate Hope River Pies (📷4); the hallmark of a good pie isn’t just the filling; it must use a different base & top pastry! 🥧

🚐 🇳🇿 🤔🌲🧭❤️ 📷

Heritage shops on London St, Lyttelton—with a ship in the gap between them
Heritage homestead in a Lyttelton back street
Pie production in-store

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