in_sympathy, to RaspberryPi
@in_sympathy@mastodon.social avatar

Really productive couple of days - I fixed two more Raspberry Pi 3B Plus boards, so they'll find new happy owners instead of turning into e-waste.

Somehow both of them had the same issues - blown PMICs and torn mosfets on the bottom part, as well as corresponding traces.

So I restored the traces and covered them with the solder mask. Had to get a UV light for that, but why not - new toy 😃

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apzpins, to Electronics
@apzpins@mstdn.games avatar
fozztexx, to random
@fozztexx@fozztexx.com avatar

Hate those fake updates from USPS where their computer sees that nothing has happened for a couple of days and inserts some generic "oh, we've totally put it on a truck and it's heading to you!” It has been sitting there for 3 days! Definitely not arriving today. 😔

fozztexx,
@fozztexx@fozztexx.com avatar

Grouped what I think is +5V regulation on secondary side. With my extremely limited understanding, seems anode side of opto D8 is managed by HA17431 IC8. If +5V voltage falls then opto turns on and asks for more juice. Too high or just right opto is off. But how is over current handled? Could IC8 be bad and that's causing the power supply to go into over current mode?

Also not sure how +12V becomes +5V with D22-D26.

fozztexx,
@fozztexx@fozztexx.com avatar

Doing some searching about how a diode in reverse can be used as a voltage regulator leads me to Zener diodes. Looking at D22-D26, D26 has a black stripe while the rest all have green stripes. D26 must be a zener diode.

If I lift D26, will that prevent the +5V rail from coming up? Will something else on the power supply blow up without it?

fozztexx,
@fozztexx@fozztexx.com avatar

Remembered I had a big variac. I was able to get the power supply to start by slowly bringing up the AC voltage. It’s hard to repeat, but I was able to do it more than once.

Not sure what that tells me though.

fozztexx,
@fozztexx@fozztexx.com avatar

Sometimes those impulse purchases turn out to be pretty handy. Bought this endoscope several months ago and it has just been sitting around. Can see the labels without having to tear all the components off.

philpem, to Electronics
@philpem@digipres.club avatar

One for the JFET experts - I'm repairing a vectorscope which has a blown input FET on channel A.
This is the input circuit - A and B are the same, and the A and B input FETs (BF244Bs) are called out as "matched pair".
What parameter do I need to measure and match?
I figured Idss but that doesn't seem to have cut it, as the A- and B-ch have an offset error between them.

panigrc, to repair
@panigrc@mastodon.social avatar

Thank you @adam for the awesome interview with @kwiens about the 🤖🛠 in @changelog podcast !

One of my favorite quotes was (I hope I understood it correctly):

> Support indie e-commerce; I appreciate it.

https://changelog.com/podcast/582#t=01:01:09

tek_dmn, to amateurradio
@tek_dmn@mastodon.tekdmn.me avatar

I'll take "things I don't want to see for $500, Alex"

tek_dmn,
@tek_dmn@mastodon.tekdmn.me avatar

Update: the last time I tried to turn this thing on, it powered on but no display. Buttons worked, knobs worked, no lights. Something tells me somewhere I either bent a pin too far or broke it in the cable... I'm expecting I didn't break anything. I don't know too much about 80s/early-90s display tech, but I'm very certain that most things that would be connected to those cables, are not the kind of thing to fail silently when incorrectly connected. No pop and no smoke tells me I probably just missed a connection.

New cables on order. 100mm same-side 1.0mm 12-pin pitch FFC. Pennies. Then it'll be round 2. And, now I have the cabling to DigiRig this thing as well.

cc @weezmgk

clayote, to random
@clayote@peoplemaking.games avatar

Alright, maybe someone out there knows a little about repairing a

This is specifically a 2DS, but I don't think it matters

I can't get mine to charge anymore, and I'm pretty sure it's because the stalk on which the power contacts reside has been bent out of shape.

I've tried to simply bend it back, and it looked like it worked, but then I plugged it back in and the stalk went back where it was.

Is there some kind of trick I can use to fix this?

philpem, to Electronics
@philpem@digipres.club avatar

Does anyone have a good transistor cross-reference or search tool? I'm trying to replace parts like the Unisonic 8050S (a weird NPN part from the 80s) with something in the 2N, BC or 2S range.
Search by package, pinout and Vce/Ic limits would be ideal!
As handy as NTE's site is, it usually just says "buy this NTE numbered part", and I'd like to know what else might be similar.

philpem, to retrocomputing
@philpem@digipres.club avatar

Tonight's repair project - the power supply for an Acorn R260 (same as the A540 and A400 series power supply). Old style switcher with NPN chopper and a jumper wire to switch between 240 and 120 volt input.
Both the phase and neutral fuses have blown. The diode bridge is fine, as is the chopper. No evidence of burning... Very strange. I don't want to replace the fuses until I find cause of failure, but there doesn't seem to be one?

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philpem, to Electronics
@philpem@digipres.club avatar

I'm going to be fixing this Pioneer CLD-1750 in a few weeks (my next spare time slot). Fault is it doesn't read discs. Laser moves, focuses, moves in, focuses again, then gives up. No spindle movement. Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping it's not laser failure - but it glows red on camera.
I've tried cleaning the laser lens.

mmu_man, to retrocomputing French
@mmu_man@m.g3l.org avatar

This poor socket… Just because there were blown caps on this Dell Optiplex GX620 board someone decided to screw it… well, rather, screwdriver it. 😞

Btw, a little piece of paper makes it much easier to see individual rows of pins on these LGA sockets and hope to bend them back in shape…

totoroot, to Electronics
moira, to diy
@moira@mastodon.murkworks.net avatar

these are easily the least bad of the old clamps but i’ll probably clean them later too

but not until after i finish the cast iron 1924 lamp

anybody got a fill epoxy good for outdoor use on cast iron? it’ll get blued and then painted of course.

1924-ish cast iron outdoor lamp sconce, substantially cleaned but needing a lot more work and repair and wiring for 12 volt LED

philpem, to random
@philpem@digipres.club avatar

Has anyone reverse-engineered one of the "600W" Chinese buck converters? Topology seems to be a fairly standard two-FET buck, but all the chip markings have been scrubbed. Curious if anyone's figured out what they are. This one died after only a day in service.

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