After my last printer broke, I am considering getting this one for it’s high precision, vibration stabilisation, and other good features, but wanted to check your experience with it before going ahead.
I guess you’re talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)
Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.
Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It’s only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!
All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It’s not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.
So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that’s it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it “lacks” is a filament sensor (haven’t had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.
Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.
So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn’t hurt to check.
Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.
The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don’t think that’s it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.
If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.
I’ve been running my Creality CR6 SE (kickstarter edition) for a few years now, and now considering an upgrade to add to the fleet. But I’m way out of the loop on what would be a good robust and reliable option these days. Would love some recommendations on what to look for in a new printer, and maybe which printers the...
Sovol sv06 is one of the best ones in terms of price to performance. If you want great customer support, get a Prusa. I can’t recommend bambu lab because of their closed off system and bad security practices.
Some context: .exe is the executable format for Windows. It’s fine that Valve is using some translation layer instead of doing a port of Counter Strike 2. This error does however suggest that they don’t even test their games before releasing them on macOS.
Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can’t see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.
Umm, ackhchually, the first sperm usually doesn’t get to the egg. It weakens the outer membrane enough for others to try, and whichever sperm gets lucky to finally break through impregnates the egg. The first one is usually out of energy by that point. So you were lucky to capitalize on the work of others. Cheers!
That is exactly why you buy cheap keys for your windows install and remove everything you don’t need. Edge got nuked from orbit by me and most annoying ads disappeared with it. I killed all notifications and I am now much happier.
Yeah, i disabled basically all telemetry on windows. I also will never upgrade to 11. It sucks donkey balls. Also I haven’t noticed any change in edge being gone. Maybe I just got lucky.
Forgot to say, I got my keys from a system builder who had a shit ton of them but had to get them off the shelves because windows 11 was around the corner. So they are all legally obtained.
I used the windows debloater to remove most telemetry and then shut off services that were left in the task manager until something broke completely. It was a bit of a process but it worked. I use my PC for 3d modeling and gaming. Never used half the integrated apps because I have no need or already have better ones or actually a physical calculator. In general with my PCs I just delete anything that I will never use. Like office for example.
I own the Ender 3 Pro BUT, I have the silent motherboard 32-bit and installed with the firmware: “Ender-3 Pro_HW4.2.7_SW2.0.9.03_SpritExt_H300” because it seems like its the only one meant for the extruder pro kit. It complains that the BL-Touch is not attach to it. I can see it in Octoprint error message and gcode terminal....
Idk about the extruder, but maybe you should compile marlin from scratch. The display issue seems to indicate that marlin has basically no idea what to do with it. Silent motherboard might not be working, because the hybrid threshold is set too low (e.g. switches from stealthchop to spreadcycle too early) or it just operates in spreadcycle. The probe can also be attributed to bad firmware. If you want to dive deeper or need help, hit me up, we’ll figure it out.
Also PID tune your hotend with this command: M303 E0 C5 S210 U
Marlin is the name of the firmware. It can be configured for any printer. It stands between the cpu of the mainboard and the motion system, telling the cpu what hardware you have and how to use it.
Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? (www.amazon.co.uk)
After my last printer broke, I am considering getting this one for it’s high precision, vibration stabilisation, and other good features, but wanted to check your experience with it before going ahead.
Recommend me a new FDM printer
I’ve been running my Creality CR6 SE (kickstarter edition) for a few years now, and now considering an upgrade to add to the fleet. But I’m way out of the loop on what would be a good robust and reliable option these days. Would love some recommendations on what to look for in a new printer, and maybe which printers the...
Glad to see Valve is putting so much effort into their macOS ports (feddit.de)
Some context: .exe is the executable format for Windows. It’s fine that Valve is using some translation layer instead of doing a port of Counter Strike 2. This error does however suggest that they don’t even test their games before releasing them on macOS.
How do y'all say GIF? (lemmy.ml)
A high-falutin' Monster Energy. (lemmy.world)
aww (lemmy.ml)
What song are you listening to? (lemmy.world)
It was not a loose thermistor after all, thank you for your help!
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OC for you.
Installed Sprite Extruder Pro kit and Ender v2 Intelligent display, but both won't work properly
I own the Ender 3 Pro BUT, I have the silent motherboard 32-bit and installed with the firmware: “Ender-3 Pro_HW4.2.7_SW2.0.9.03_SpritExt_H300” because it seems like its the only one meant for the extruder pro kit. It complains that the BL-Touch is not attach to it. I can see it in Octoprint error message and gcode terminal....
Designed a Master Spool that is easy to print (lemmy.one)
Designed an easy to print spool held together by M3 screws. No supports necessary. Master Spool standard....