and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
Creality ender 5 s1 Creality slicer High detail profile (Infill % 15, speed 100, nozzle temp 205, bed temp 60, z axis 0.1) PLA These were the default with no changes.
I am not sure what other parameters can be changed.
I will post a screenshot tonight. I did notice that 99% of the time is on the outer wall, this is where I noticed the pauses when I simulate the print.
I’m sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don’t usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit “show advanced” or something? So if you didn’t change anything, that is even less likely.
If it’s real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.
When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.
You definitely don’t need a layer height that low for something like this. Even still, you’ve got something set up weird because at a normal 0.2mm layer height it’s showing just under 4 hours to print everything but the pull rods (only because I’m too lazy to split the STL apart right now.) Try resetting your build settings or start a ‘new’ project. https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/bcc87077-006a-4c05-9873-352c749050f9.png
Don’t use Creality Slicer, it’s just an outdated renamed version of Cura. Download the most recent version of Cura here and your problems will most likely go away. ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/
Something else to check is your infill percentage. Make sure you don’t have it at 100% (unless you absolutely need to build something completely solid). Another thing to check is your print speed. Too low and it will take a decade to print something simple. Too fast and it cause your print to fail. At this point we will all be throwing spaghetti against the wall. Can you share a screenshot of your settings?
I suspect what’s getting you is minimum layer time. In a nutshell, extruding very hot plastic onto a layer that was very recently extruded can result in a runny mess. Minimum layer time is intended to address this.
That said 131 hours seems a bit intense.
What’s your layer height? How good is your cooling? If you crank your fan, you might be able to decrease minimum layer time.
A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.
That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.
Just to add on to this, if OP is printing this standing then it really should be laid on iits side, so that the hole in the handle is facing up & down, not sideways. Looking at this print that’s definitely how it should be printed. Vertical not only runs into layer time issues, but it’s a tall, thin object with loads of layer seams in the middle. It will be extremely weak. Lying down the layers run along the length of it, making it stronger. If the hole is sideways, then one side of the handle makes a giant bridge, which could fail the print entirely or need lots of supports.
I imagine the designer very intentionally made it to print on its side.
Oh and put the embossed arrow facing up, assuming the other side is flat.
I don’t know how to tell you this but this already exists. Get a Oscillating Multi tool pack at the store and it comes in all of them. I have three different ones.
What material did you print this in? Sanding generates heat pretty easily and may soften some materials. I’m curious of your experience with that as you’ve given me some ideas for sanding jigs.
That is interesting. I’m professionally curious about the drive mechanism for the oscillation pattern on these now. As a former auto body shop owner and painter, I would not expect this to be free of mechanical error like a high quality pneumatic dual action sander, but it is an interesting idea. In fact I can imagine taking this to another level and creating a thin sanding blade like design with Emory paper, to use in very tight slots.
It does matter for automotive-class perfection. You will have hot spots develop that dig deeper than the rest of the surface. We are talking about mirror gloss perfection though. You are likely not working on a project of this scale/class.
Patterns can emerge from resonant frequencies (www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvJAgrUBF4w). The dual action of a “DA” sander is made to cancel out the resonance.
You can buy these from Dewalt with triangular shaped velcro backed sanding pads. I used one to refinish a crappy bedside table during covid and it did leave a lot of weird sanding marks (especially if the paper picks up any debris) but it does work. It’s probably better suited for small surfaces that aren’t flat.
How have the bolts held up? It looks like you’ve default oriented them vertically. I’ve found that makes the stress along the layer lines and I’ve had to reprint horizontally (which means support but that’s how it is)
Clamped just doesn’t quite feel like the right descriptor for this design. I was imagining some type of cammed or levered system, but instead there’s just large screws that do all of the holding power. Regardless, it’s still a cool design, and I like it 😁
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