Some #3Dprinting today. I haven't printed #TPU in ages, but need some of these little bumpers to support a glass top on a patio table.
TPU is a slightly soft/flexible urethane plastic that can be tough to print (for me anyway). Good results today tho'. The advice to print hotter, slower and a little thicker than PLA seems to work pretty well.
The two-part approach worked well for me to be able to squeeze these into mounting holes. As one piece they don't deform enough to get thru the hole.
Behold my ridiculous, impractical, but functional temporary #3dPrinted#bike kickstand replacement. 🤦
For some reason, my kickstand broke off again (the two kickstand-plate welds broke off at the bottom of the bike, wtf) and this is a long weekend in Germany, so until Monday my fav bike shop is closed, so no chance getting it fixed until then.
So #3dPrinting to the rescue: fire up #SolveSpace and throw some design together, print it and voilà, we have ourselves a shitty little replacement.
Well, the wood impregnated filament seem to burn and… harden? And break off Inside there. I removed it. I confirmed that there is no blockage in the hot end. The filament sensor is 👍.
I shoved some of the cleaning needles in each end and they informed me that there was something right in the center between the two where I don’t actually have access that is causing the problem
Found the little bastard.
I have had to take the printer out of its enclosure in order to have any hope of actually seeing the thing with my eyeball because all attempts to get tweezers on it have failed
For those of you who were curious. This was the end result.
I should have known, because I printed a thinner version of this months ago, the core idea is 👍 BUT everything goes wrong as soon as you get past the thin side sections. The second photo shows what they look like head-on.
I am experimenting with a new #stitching technique for our new prototype GLoA E-reader case covers. I have fallen in love with the results. Still can’t believe this is #3dprinted plastics! #lasercut leather and hand stitched. Needs some minor adjustments but progress is good.
For the last couple of days I've been working on an #OpenSCAD program to create custom #Pantorouter tenons. Set the tenon dimensions, the inner bit/bearing, outer bit/bearing, rows/columns, and it does all the math. But after printing out a full size paper preview I think what I want to do is going to be much bigger than the Pantorouter can handle. #woodworking
After sliding the bearing along the taper to make the tenon smaller, it almost fits! Did have to go all the way to the edge, I think the taper angle should probably be steeper. And I couldn't quite get the length to fit. Probably should do that stepped interior like the included templates do.
Increased the taper from 5 degrees to 8 degrees and added inner steps with a 2mm offset on each. I guess I'll have to print it to really test it, and it takes 2 hours to print. If only 3D printing was faster. (My printer is a FlashForge Creator Pro from 2015.)
8 degrees wasn’t enough. Had to go all the way to the edge and it’s a very tight fit. I’d like to get a good fit without needing to go much past halfway. Also had to use the longest mortise. #3DPrinting#OpenSCAD#Pantorouter#woodworking
After tweaking the mortise side of the template I finally got something that works! I had to use the second step of the mortise and halfway down the taper for the tenon, but it fits easily. #3DPrinting#OpenSCAD#Pantorouter#woodworking
Goofing around with adding labels to the template so I don't forget what it is and what bearings/bits it needs. Would love to have an OpenSCAD function that can see if a value is an even multiple of eighth inches and convert to a reduced fraction so it could print 1/2” instead of 12.7 or 3/4” instead of 19.05. #3DPrinting#OpenSCAD#Pantorouter#woodworking
Another feature that might be useful
Is a center mark along the top edge, but not sure how I’d do that without making a dent that the bearing would hit. #3DPrinting#OpenSCAD#Pantorouter#woodworking