@stereo4x4@techhub.social
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

stereo4x4

@stereo4x4@techhub.social

against throwawayism; collector/repairer of old things; maker/diy enthusiast; bob the builder, gyro gearloose or McGyver, depending on which neighbour you ask.

electronics engineering / (embedded) software dev.

I post about: electronics, bicycles, cars, mechanical contraptions, woodworking, welding, pets, PV, computers, repairs, DIY, ... = technology

https://twitter.com/stereo4x4

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oliof, to random German
@oliof@hachyderm.io avatar

Ich schaue gerade ein Video über Balkonsolaranlagen, wo jemand seinen Invest (560EUR) gegen seine Stromersparnis im ersten Jahr (65EUR) rechnet, und das als Rendite von über 11% betrachtet.

Vielleicht ist das ja ein Gedankengang für alle die die sich fragen, ob sich die Sache lohnt ...

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@oliof wobei man, wenn man das ganze schon rein auf die Wirtschaftlichkeit beschränkt auch die Lebenszeit der Anlage mit betrachten sollte. 560/65 = 8,6 Jahre Amortisation. So lange hält die Anlage auf jeden Fall = man macht bei der ganzen Aktion keinen Verlust. Die 11% sind aber schöngerechnet.

65€ entsprechen 185 kWh bei 35 ct/kWh. Bei 50% Eigenverbrauch sind wir also bei 370kWh erzeugtem Strom. Über die 8,6 Jahre sind das dann 3194 kWh. Laut https://www.umweltbundesamt.de/themen/co2-emissionen-pro-kilowattstunde-strom-stiegen-in wüde ich 400g CO2 per kWh ansetzen, also hätte das ganze - auch wenn man selber nichts verdient hätte ca. 1,3 Tonnen CO2 gespart (abzüglich Herstellungskosten). Das entspeicht zwei Hin- und Rückflugen von Stuttgart nach Malle.

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@cb1 @oliof Schöngerechnet ist vielleicht das falsche Wort. Ich will sagen die 11% enthalten den Wertverlust der Anlage nicht.

stereo4x4, to wildlife
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

Quack quack. Who's there? Oh, never mind. Just the casual mandarin duck on the roof. What?!

Mandarin duck sitting on chimney looking at me

moira, to cycling
@moira@mastodon.murkworks.net avatar

Version 4 Hybrid Dragon bike cargo hitch adapter. Substantially different to Version 3, obviously. This one accepts a U-shaped piece of bent metal rod that I already have.

The point of this one is that Version 3 is excellent but printing it in metal is hundreds of dollars.

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@moira I got the same kickstand and had to modify the trailer coupling with a grinder to fit to the frame and clear the kickstand. After all of this I got an additional trailer with another coupling, modified the old one to fit the new coupling and had to do it all over again...

azonenberg, to random
@azonenberg@ioc.exchange avatar

Assembling the trigger crossbar board over lunch.

Not thrilled with the paste print quality, very inconsistent. the top left corner was way too thick as the board flexed during printing, the middle BGA skipped some pads, and the WLCSP in the bottom right was near perfect.

These big boards bend too much in my paste fixture, I need to find a way to prevent that before I do any more boards of this scale.

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@azonenberg @whitequark datasheet: look at <<<feature>>>
Me: selects IC because of <<<feature>>>, create symbol, footprint, draw schematic, layout, order board, bringup, ...
Errata sheet: <<<feature>>> is broken on rev1 silicon.

Yes, checking errata sheets saves a lot of time.

Another pitfall: the datasheet/chip behaviour could change at any time ; e.g. manufacturer releases new version of datasheet and new IC revision. "no connect" pin is now "if unused, connect to GND". Production populates new ICs, pin floats on some units to undefined state and IC enters some undocumented test mode. This one annoyed a lot of people.

foone, to random
@foone@digipres.club avatar

ugh. you stop using the old method of compiling a program for seven months while you work on rewriting it like 5 times, and now you forget how to compile it properly!

it's almost like depending on a compiler from 1992 was a mistake

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@aburka @foone now I want to connect a USB floppy to my phone via an USB OTG cable, thanks.

ronanmcd, to cycling
@ronanmcd@mastodon.green avatar

making international news in the most Clontarf way possible https://road.cc/content/news/cyclist-threatened-ps11-million-fine-over-bike-shed-306735

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@ronanmcd If this would happen to me, I would buy a cheap van, park van on a public road with free parking and use the van to store the bikes.

Luckily we got enough storage space for our bikes, but I actually could store our bike trailer in the car so it takes up less space and is right at the street...

MLE_online, to random
@MLE_online@social.afront.org avatar

A belt sander is useful for more than just sanding. For example, you can use one for testing the output of a generator hub for a bicycle

video/mp4

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@MLE_online I intentionally drive diy LED bike lights without a smoothing cap and only with a tiny resistor (just enough to not damage the LEDs). For maximum efficiency, two anti-parallel LEDs can be used (no losses at the rectifier). Integrated light output is roughly the same or better, but the light starts to periodically flash at low speeds and as soon as I get up to speed the flashing is fast enough that I don't see/notice it.

Assuming 3,4 V for a white LED and 0,5V for a shottky bridge rectifier thats 0,5/(0,5+3,4)=~~13% less losses by using two antiparallel white LEDs.

An option for even higher efficiency at low speeds is to use two antiparallel LEDs with an even smaller resistor for main light output and low speed flashing output and additionally add a bridge rectifier, smoothing cap, big resistor and small LED to act as a crude shunt regulator to protect the big LEDs from too high current spikes and glow while waiting at intersections etc.
https://assets.cree-led.com/a/da/x/XLamp-Pulsed-Current.pdf

geco_de, to makershour German
@geco_de@troet.cafe avatar

Sensoren zur Ermittlung des Füllstands für Gasflaschen weit über 100€. Und die können nicht mal mit einer 45kg Flasche umgehen. 😧
Da könnte man in die Versuchung geraten selber was zu basteln.
Irgendwelche Ideen.
@makershour

stereo4x4,
@stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

@geco_de @makershour Dehnmessstreifen/Messbrücke und ein kleiner Microcontroller der das Gewicht in den Füllstand umrechnet? Ggf. auch einfach die Mechanik einer Personenwaage nutzen und die vorhandenen DMS selbst auslesen?

lcamtuf, to random

deleted_by_author

    •
    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @lcamtuf Is it acceptable to have access to the chainsaw collection of a friend instead of owning one myself? Bonus points for two-men chainsaws?

    ubik, to Electronics
    @ubik@fedi.turbofish.cc avatar

    fedi, any tips on sanity checks to do on my schematic / PCB before I send it to Shenzhen (for a first 5 unit round, of course)? It's not super complex, but already big enough that it would take me forever to breadboard it.

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @ubik use some kind of checklist, e.g. https://github.com/azonenberg/pcb-checklist ?

    f4grx, to random
    @f4grx@chaos.social avatar

    I'm sorry to interrupt, but have a look at these fried eggs i'm preparing.

    video/mp4

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @f4grx I'm sorry to interrupt, but have a look at the cranberry buns I baked.

    timonsku, (edited ) to random
    @timonsku@mastodon.social avatar

    E: Ok I think I got a few options now, thanks!

    I have a pressure pump that is controlled via WiFi to water my plants at specific times.
    That works well but my issue is that I get siphoning for some low standing plants.
    I can't find something that would essentially only allow high pressure to flow and stop at low pressure. This could be as simple as a backflow valve with a stronger spring but it doesn't seem to be a thing?
    Electric solution also ok but needs to be pressure controlled.

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @timonsku random idea: connect a solenoid valve (the type found in dishwashers and washing machines) in reverse and replace the solenoid with an external spring/rubber belt etc to adjust the pressure on the membrane? See https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/solenoid-valve.html first pic at "Chapter two" for the type that could work.

    I'm not sure how the pressure/membrane area/flow rate will turn out.

    ActionRetro, to random
    @ActionRetro@bitbang.social avatar

    Looking for a computer with a Via C3 processor, for totally normal reasons

    If you have one knocking around, let me know!

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @ActionRetro what about one with Via C7? It was used in a lot of thin clients.

    cazabon, to Signal

    The #furnace #odyssey continues.

    Got a replacement blower #ECM #motor from northamericahvac.com - had to order from the States. Installed it, and ... furnace was still throwing an #error code meaning "incorrect #signal from ECM motor" once, then "no signal from ECM motor" forever after.

    After double-checking, I saw the part number on the box didn't match what I'd ordered - but that turned out to be a red herring. The box number was for the unprogrammed motor.

    1/x

    #epic #ItNeverEnds

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @cazabon I had a furnace fail with the relay switching the blower motor stuck in the "on" position. It worked but ramped up to full speed in case there was no PWM signal (control board thought that the relay = fan is off). A 2nd hand control board was available for ~100€, so I did not bother to replace the stuck Omron relay. It worked 5 more years until the whole furnace was replaced.

    Good luck with your furnace!

    stereo4x4, to lasercutting
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    I cleaned the and Lucy for and placed him inside our "new" outdoor light (vintage 1965 lantern with a DIY bracket and wired up for mains supply instead of a petroleum lantern).

    Lantern at daylight. It is bolted to a bracket that mounts it to the wall. The lantern is black and features a small chimney. Windows are frosted glass. The bracket is mounted with shiny brass screws.

    kwf, to random
    @kwf@social.afront.org avatar

    I have received my extremely cute AC current switch. It's a current transformer that is able to power itself and close a contact when the current flowing through the CT exceeds your set threshold.

    I think it might be worth mocking something up on my desk with this to show how to use it before building it into a project...

    https://amzn.to/3rZGACi

    image/jpeg

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @kwf afaik, they use a triac as switch. A version with a simple open drain DC output would be great to use with Tasmota

    stereo4x4, to woodworking German
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    obacht: Metz Furniere aus Stuttgart schließt zum Jahresende und sucht Nachfolger: http://www.metz-furniere.de/shop/nachfolger.php Ich habe dort schon persönlich eingekauft - top Beratung und eine Halle voll Material zum stöbern. Der Onlineshop ist auch nicht schlecht. Es wäre schade, wenn der Betrieb verschwindet.

    stereo4x4, to random
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    ★△

    moira, to diy
    @moira@mastodon.murkworks.net avatar

    I just had a thought.

    I’ve got two dead microwaves with perfectly good control systems.

    What’s to stop me from ripping out the dead transformers, cutting into the main cooking chamber, and putting in low-wattage heaters - maybe just appliance light bulbs - and slow fans to turn them into warm drying boxes with fancy control panels?

    I don’t see a downside here other than maybe a maximum run time thanks to the control system having whatever it is maximum run time because microwave.

    I don’t need two but I could give one away maybe.

    Does this sound useful or is this a not-as-clever-as-I-think-I-am-here situation?

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @moira microwaves usually adjust their output power by powering on the transformer, magnetron etc. at a duty cycle with a period of approx. 20-60 seconds. If you want to use this feature, think about thermal mass and output power of the heating element.

    The inner chamber usually is just spot welded to the enclosure. The whole thing might get too hot. You might be better off just modifying a cheap (toaster) oven and using a stc1000 temperature controller. At least it makes sense to add some kind of over temperature protection. Usually a microwave contains at least one bimetallic switch to prevent it from overheating that could be repurposed, depending on the switching temperature.

    Please don't do stupid things with the high voltage components. The magnetron contains toxic materials (berilyum oxide).

    ian, to random
    @ian@hachyderm.io avatar

    I am feverish in bed post-vaccine, please tell me a cool fact about something

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @ian moon phases look different depending where on earth you are. This is not surprising if you think about it, but I usually don't think about how my local coordinate system maps to the solar system so I was really surprised looking at a half moon in Ecuador at first.

    Another one: 25-30km/h is there best speed to deploy soap bubbles from a car window

    stereo4x4, to Electronics
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    hmm...

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @cazabon smol fuse, hueg contact resistance 🤷‍♂

    gsuberland, to random
    @gsuberland@chaos.social avatar

    I really need to implement a thing that switches my machine to the low power profile when I've not got media playing and no input has been detected for an hour, and resets it back once I'm present again.

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @gsuberland @voltagex there is an autohotkey script to save and restore window locations https://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/112113-dockwin-storerecall-window-positions/

    ratkins, to Electronics
    @ratkins@mastodon.social avatar

    What’s the best multimeter for a hobbyist these days?

    (The case on the one I bought from Jaycar twenty years ago has started weeping solvents and the screw holding the battery door on is stripped!)

    stereo4x4,
    @stereo4x4@techhub.social avatar

    @ratkins I am happy with my Uni-T ut210e and ut61e. They cover all my usual needs. The clamp meter is great for car or high current DC stuff e.g. to check if the alternator is working or for solar panel current measurement on the roof.

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