I learned some days ago how #moisture gets trapped inside #sealed enclosures used for #electronics when exposed to daily cycles of heat and cold.
The cold creates lower pressure inside. If that overpowers the seals, then outside air gets sucked in, carrying moisture. This extra moisture can condense inside and accumulate at the bottom.
In the next warm part of the cycle, if some air is expelled because of the higher pressure, that moisture is not carried out because it is in a liquid state.🧵
Repeat this a lot of times, and you will get the electronic circuit diving inside the enclosure 😂
I want to measure how the humidity and pressure fluctuate inside an enclosure that I'm prototyping for an industrial composting temperature sensor, so I assembled a quick hack with an Adafruit ESP32 Feather V2 running SensorWatcher that will report that every 10 minutes. The sensors are an HTU31D for humidity and a BMP388 for pressure.🧵
I bought a Razer headset on a whim while in the electronics store earlier. I don't think I will do that again. To get the fuil features I paid for I had to register and give more private details than I had to give for working in one of the biggest banks of Europe.
Why does an electronics company want those kind of details from me. Why do they want me to give all that to use what I already paid for?
If you're interested in #electronics and #software, you should follow us here in the Fediverse :-)
We try to share our new developments, discoveries and mistakes with you and look forward to a lively exchange!
From time to time we will also draw your attention to new blog posts on blog.zero-iee.com. If you don't want to miss anything, you've come to the right place! :-)
So I had a look on the sigrok wiki, and I've narrowed it down to a couple but still looking for recommendations for a logic analysier that people have used. Looking for something a little better than the £10 streaming type - in the sub £100 price range. Sigrok compatability ( or works on linux and older versions (11.7) of OS X #electronics#esp32
Making goddamn SURE that any gorilla can yank the cable out of this QWIIC socket and it won't come off the board unless the solder itself fails #electronics#maker
Update on microwave/fan hood lamp replacement. I’d bought an LED for it a while back which wouldn't turn off. Also, same brightness for Half or Full. I figured the circuit didn't work due to low power draw, 1.5 vs 25 watts for incandescent. Went to buy incandescent from homedepot and notice their appliance light section consists of those and LEDs with tiny text saying “non-dimmable”, which is another way of saying "no full/half brightness support”.
Tried incandescent and it doesn't shut off or dim either, which probably means the LED somehow broke the circuit? I'm really curious what they are using to control this, seems overly complicated or not very robust. Curious enough to pull microwave off wall mount and take apart? We shall see! #electronics
I'm looking for recommendations for things to help introduce someone to the world of electronics, both instructional materials and hands-on activities like kit building. I've run into a few people now who are really interested after learning about some project, like console modding or repair, and would love to increase their knowledge.
Die blauen LEDs eines Scheinwerfers flackern oder fallen ganz aus. Defekt ist der dazugehörige Transistor. Nach dem Austausch funktioniert der Scheinwerfer wieder einwandfrei.
Ignore the dust. This is the unit bearing the front USB3 ports of my PC case, a CoolerMaster N400. When opening this, I thought I would find a circuit board that I can easily trace and solder. Nope. It's just a piece of black plastic held together by dark forces. The lower port is broken. It works if I bend it upwards with considerable force, but it doesn't stay like that. I assume it's a broken solder joint and there's still a PCB inside. I wonder if the plastic would be able to withstand 150°C or so for 10 minutes. Maybe I could try reflowing it with the case on? #Repair#USB#DIY#Electronics#Computer#PC
Five months later, I finally got around to bringing up my four channel driver board so I can control X and Y at the same time on these. With a hole in the middle of the PCB, this seems like it could actually work as a back-illuminated microscope stage. Not as good as an OpenFlexure probably? But it's just a PCB, simple 3D printed part, and $3 worth of magnets (well, and drive electronics!). The software driving it is #rustlang, of course!
Quick question for all you far more knowledgable types. I noticed that after I put my esp32 custom board into deep sleep it settled to a draw ~23.5uA but 350ms later there was a gradual (over 100ms) increase up to 27.7uA after which it dropped back to ~23.5uA. This happens after each wake and deep sleep cycle, but only once per cycle.
I have a suspicion but I don't want to influence responses - plus I don't really know what I'm doing 😔 - Some obvious known pattern?
Had to roll back to a previous beta (4.0.0 beta
6) to get it to work, but finally #ppk2 is working. Bit of a nightmare as they've basically dropped any support for OS X below 13 for new software builds. Don't seem to be the same restrictions with linux as far as I can see.
Seems I was pretty accurate in my calculations for deep sleep, I though 23.5uA and the PPK2 tells me it's an average of 23.51, peaking at a max of 27.66 #electronics
#Fake operational transconductance amplifiers I bought on #EBay over 6 years ago. Date code doesn't make sense given that Intersil discontinued the #CA3080 over a decade ago. The real chip should have a diode across pins 4 and 5. Only one chip seems to have it -- but it is reversed. The rest have resistors between pins 1 and 4, and between 4 and 5, consistent with an op amp that provides offset null pins. Pin 8 also seems to be connected. Both 1 and 8 should be NC. #electronics#opamp
At least the single rail #opamp#oscillator circuit works with these counterfeit chips. Maybe I'll turn them all into #LED blinkies and Schmitt triggers.