@buzzyrobin@chaos.social
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buzzyrobin

@buzzyrobin@chaos.social

Buzzy-brained birb ๐“…ซ | they/she ๐Ÿณโ€โšง | aspec | minis, swords, cats, electronics and web dev

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buzzyrobin, to random
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ui design is my passion

(After trying to make FreeCAD vaguely readable, I now understand why the default background uses a gradient: so you can shift the unreadable UI element around to put it against a more contrasting background bit SO YOU CAN FUCKING READ IT.)

yes, I am angy birb >:[

jacqueline, to random
@jacqueline@chaos.social avatar

shout out to the rockbox forum โ€œwe should make an open source player!โ€ thread for a true roller coaster of reading.

22 pages or whatever, 10ish years, and every single idea in there sounded good enough to make me panic, but then it turned out to not really be viable

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@jacqueline 2008-2022, if I remember right. I feel more sad than anything

jacqueline, to random
@jacqueline@chaos.social avatar

i have submitted an application to crowd supply!!!! please send me your good energy as i am N E R V O U S

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@jacqueline i am slipping them a piece of paper with โ€œthis is thirty quidโ€ scrawled on it

(iโ€™m sorry if this backfires, i havenโ€™t tried bribing anyone with bitcoin before)

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Further explainers on the MiniBrute replacement cheeks I posted pictures of earlier:

I used a plane to do the sloping nose bit (shaded in pencil, pic 1), then coarse sandpaper on a sanding block at an angle to get a flat surface to use the plane again to make the big 45ยฐ chamfer (shaded in pencil, pic 2+3) on that now-smaller nose.

Two blocks side-by-side, now with areas around the front outer corners shaded.
One of the pieces clamped in the work table, with a little 45-degree chamfer sanded out of it (cross-section diagrammed), to rest the plane on to make further, more precise cuts.
The resulting piece, the wood reducing in height from the mid-point forwards, with a triangle chamfer cut out of that shaped area. I put a plane in the background of the photo because Iโ€™m a wanker.

buzzyrobin,
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I chiseled out the inset rabbet (??? the step the bottom metal panel fits in) first by scoring with a knife (to reduce tear-out), the using a mallet + chisel to take half of the amount out, then half again, then rotating the piece 90ยฐ to come at it from the side, then using the (resharpened) chisel directly to clean up the edges, rotating it a couple more times. Iโ€™m very new at this kind of thing, and Iโ€™m not happy with my edges, but itโ€™s good enough for now.

The rough chunk now removed to show the partially-chiseled area.
More taken out of the channel.
Mostly done. A pile of rough wood shavings next to a stair-step of a cut-in.

buzzyrobin,
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(I donโ€™t have a stable enough bench for either planing or chiselling; I have to physically brace the table/bench/whatever to stop it moving, which compounds errors. My sharpening setup is incomplete as well; I have sharpening stones but no strop. I would like to revisit this all before next project, because itโ€™s the pits fighting your tools.)

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Oh! I fucked something up while chiseling. I went too far, and took a chunk out between the front of the piece and the inset cut-out. PVA + clamping sorted it out.

(Then I did it again. Oops. Oh well, I donโ€™t think itโ€™s visible.)

A clearer shot of the same kind of damage, on the other end of the piece this time.
The same area on the finished piece. Seems okayโ€ฆ?
Ditto; the rear this time.

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

So after shaping and chiseling, I drilled some holes for test-fitting. Mostly there; just some gaps, which I sorted out with a smidge more chiseling.

The unit from the front, upside-down, showing the right-hand cheek. You can see the damage from the last post pretty clearly, as a scraggly dirty line in the front of the piece.
A broader view of the unit, upside-down, showing the unfinished cheeks attached.
โ€ฆ and now right-side up.

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Final sanding, staining a lovely cedar red, then four(? six?) coats of shellac. I gave it a light sand with 1200 grit every couple of coats, then very gently after the final coat with some polishing sandpaper.

The bits of wood being shellacked. I am there! I am holding a little sponge on a stick, which Iโ€™m using to apply the shellac.
Closer photo of the shellac, just applied, being wet and glossy.

jacqueline, to random
@jacqueline@chaos.social avatar

@buzzyrobin made some beautiful wooden side panels for my synth!!!!

a rear view of the same.
another rear view. not that much new here!
a top down view!

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@jacqueline Some in-progress shots:

The two cheeks, cut out, shaped, and sanded smooth with the two sanding blocks Iโ€™ve 3D-printed.
The two cheeks, one stained cedar-red, the original unstained pinkish flooded gum.
Two shellacked cheeks, red and glossy, two aluminium brackets (drilled and shaped to fit into the sides of the main unit), and the Mini-Brute proper upside-down, sides off and the interior exposed. @Jacqueline is disassembling the unit.

jacqueline, to random
@jacqueline@chaos.social avatar

idk how common this feeling is, but spotify really just shredded my appreciation for music for years. what a blunder.

buzzyrobin,
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@jacqueline I am possibly lucky that I retained my appreciation for full albums from CDs from beforehand, and tend to like artists that compose for them, eg. The Decemberists, Mars Volta, Cinematic Orchestra, Nick Cave with his Four Seasons work, etc.

I definitely find myself working uphill when I use Spotify et al, and appreciate Bandcampโ€™s album focus.

(I was too late to get the Cassette Experience, for better or worse.)

ifixcoinops, to random
@ifixcoinops@retro.social avatar

Mate of mine was telling his kid "Hey, be careful, don't trip over the wire!" and then he got up and tripped over the wire himself so I get to fix a mouse today lol.

He really yanked on this thing! To the point where the metal part of the USB connector went sideways and tore off the wires inside. I gave it a wiggle and it popped off like a loose tooth.

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@jacqueline @ifixcoinops @emily I would simply use the shield as the ground wire

jacqueline, to random
@jacqueline@chaos.social avatar

"First, thereโ€™s a 30W switching power supply with tantalum capacitors, a specially-designed metal cover over the transformer, low-dropout (LDO) regulators and more to ensure low jitter and noise, according to FiiO."

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@jacqueline
> And all that money buys you super easy and effortless access to a wide range of music formats, all of which are instantly unlocked to give their best possible sound. Importantly, this includes CDs, which are virtually ubiquitous now

when was this written, 199-fucking-7?!?!

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

can now confirm that getting a tattoo is very unlike getting electrolysis

buzzyrobin,
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@aphistic it was the opposite for me! sustained/constant excruciating pain for tattoo, but I can almost sleep through the second half of electrolysis where I can lay on my side and disassociate+doze

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Related to https://chaos.social/@jacqueline/110573109629695198:

Phantom power is just DC bias. You know how audio is just kinda tiny-AC, little voltage wobbling around a โ€˜zeroโ€™ value? What if you simply had it wobble around, like, +40V instead, and used that bias / offset / extra power for other stuff thatโ€™s using the same wires as the microphone signal or whatever?

anyway this shit is wild and im learning lots

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Project! A bracket for @jacquelineโ€™s tiny drill press that lets me mount a T12-M8 soldering iron handle to use to put in heat-set inserts.

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

these days I donโ€™t really know if I get looks in public for being trans or for wearing a mask

timonsku, (edited ) to random
@timonsku@mastodon.social avatar

I recently got the tip to use pull blades/card scrapers for wood working to remove layer lines from prints instead of sanding. Its intense how much quicker this is for the rough pass.
This was printed at .3mm layer height and the lines are gone in the middle shallow bit after 3min of shaving. Getting in now with sandpaper would get to a super smooth surface really quickly!

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@timonsku I thought you meant, like, a spoke shave / draw knife, but I don't recognise that at all. May I ask what it is?

(And how do you immobilise the piece to do this...?)

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

@mossmann @timonsku oh! is it a card scraper...?

buzzyrobin, to random
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

Through some accident(? intention? I really don't know), the lily58 keyboard PCB my one is based off has four neat holes inside the footprint of the through-hole TRRS jack that perfectly suit a 4-pin Mini-DIN socket's through-hole pins.

A 4-pin Micro-DIN socket+housing, with four pins and a stabiliser jutting out the bottom.
The Mini-DIN socket in situ, four pins poking through to the reverse side of the PCB.

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

hmm

buzzyrobin,
@buzzyrobin@chaos.social avatar

so anyway

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