Fun discovery of the day: PrusaSlicer (at least for the Mini) actually enforces the machine limits by emitting appropriate G-code when slicing. Among other things, this means that if you want, say, higher accelerations, you can just request them.
This is probably because the Mini can't save anything to EEPROM, which means any change to presets requires a firmware upgrade.
Aujourd'hui, un thread d'artisanat local : comment exploite t-on les technologies de photopolymérisation mécaniquement assistées via un appareil à stéréolithographie à application de masque numérique pour transformer des photopolymères liquides à l'état de superpositions de couches de polymères solides à l'aide de projection UV et d'alcool isopropylique.
Ou encore, "comment faire une impression 3d en résine", c'est plus clair.
#3DPrinting folks: Anyone interested in the idea of a #Fediverse model hosting site (like Thingiverse, etc)? I'm wondering whether I should expand @vandam (my self-hosted 3d library manager app) in that direction, and I'd be very interested in your thoughts: https://github.com/Floppy/van_dam/issues/1389
Folks: I'm going to say something potentially controversial in the #3dPrinting world.
The Prusa MK3S is a mess from a software perspective.
I didn't say it was a bad printer, by all accounts, it's pretty amazing printer. But looking at the #OpenSCAD code? Wow, it's not well-written software.
For those of you who don't know, it's open source hardware (GPL3) written (mostly) in OpenSCAD. You can find it on GitHub:
Decided to try downloading some Prusa Mini input shaping. Partly to try out a theory of @Stark9837's, partly because @lytta might need me to assist, partly because reasons of YOLO and why not.
I put the Mini away because it started to annoy me. Let's see what happens when I try picking it up again.
Dear #3DPrint friends, I have a little problem. This is the base of my #NeXT#MegaPixel Display mini (scale 1:2). How would you print such a part on an #FDM printer with minimal support?
So, mein erster Druck läuft. 2. Versuch übrigens, weil den ersten musste ich unmittelbar abbrechen. Dann nochmal nachkalibriert (manuell) und nun sieht es perfekt aus.
#Makers#3DPrinting
I reached for my digital calipers the other day, and they were flickering like an LCD in a horror movie. Unsurprisingly, I did not have spare LR44 disc batteries on hand.
I decided "Eff this. I never want to need my calipers and have them not work because some battery died." So, I ordered these. Mitutoyo is a brand known for good precision, but I couldn't bring myself to spend the $100 to $300‡ for their more precise ones. These were only $35.
I'm currently deciding whether to do a design in #OpenSCAD or #FreeCAD or maybe some of both?
I may convert an old 12-chord autoharp from my wife's family into a 21-chord unit by making narrow chord bars. If I do that, I'd like to try #3DPrinting the chord bars with integral TPU dampers, programmatically generated.
Button rank: Which of three rows should the button go on?
Notes: Which notes are in the chord?
Strings: Note names of every string, along with their relative station.
Name: Chord name printed into the bar.
Then I could remove from the model sections of the TPU damper part of the bar for every string corresponding with a note named in the list of notes for a particular damper, so that it doesn't damp the notes in that cord.
This feels programmatic, and OpenSCAD would be a rational choice. I know that one can program macros for FreeCAD, but it's harder to make FreeCAD macros part of a project instead of part of an installation as far as I know. On the other hand, I'd love to generate STEP files that express more semantics, rather than STL files, which argues again for FreeCAD. Maybe I could find a way to drive this from a spreadsheet in FreeCAD instead of with code. 🤔
Or maybe we should stick to the 12-chord version for now until we decide this is too limiting. 😀
Introducing the second iteration of my #fakerbeams project. I wasn't happy with the results of emulating aluminium extrusion as-is, so this is an entirely new construction system designed from the ground up for #3Dprinting, heat-set inserts, and metric everything. Finished structures get M3-bolted together for strength, but prototyping is done with bits of 4mm doweling for speed - it took just minutes to pull apart the little cube and rebuild it into the bigger box!
I've logged out of Reddit (possibly? probably? for the long term) after the whole "he likes Elon Musk" horseshit and have set up a kbin account to see whether I like it.
The past few days of #3DPrinting has been a set of different sizes of filament rollers for my dry box.
Not satisfied to just tweak my design by hand for my own use, I've made it a fairly robust, highly-parameterized #FreeCAD model that you can adjust to your needs and whatever bearings you have sitting around or find to buy for cheap.
These were inspired by a set I found on a web search, for which only STLs were available, and which didn't meet my needs, but I re-designed it from scratch to be parametric.
None of the chiral einstein printable models I found included a CAD file, but one showed an image of the constraints implemented in what looked like SolidWorks. I started over from scratch in #FreeCAD instead. I didn't re-implement the version I found; I made something that looks a bit different. These are for my favorite mathematician, with whom I consulted on tile size and radius of orienting curves.
This would have been a great candidate for Sketcher having a single "add midpoint to line" feature though! It would have made this project a lot easier.
And yes, I'll upload the it all somewhere when I've tested it out. And if you had already printed out some of the ones from RichiH on Printables and would like to use this design to make something that works in his system, it will be possible to edit the BaseLength to 10 and the radius to Constraints.BaseLength / 2 and they should just work together.
As the videos and articles are coming out more, as deliveries are finally made, I have come to the conclusion that the #Prusa XL is an early access printer.
It is literally like buying early access games. "Here is a game at full price. The functionality is limited, and we promise we will release this in the future, but there are many bugs."
Prusa literally finalized the design, did some internal testing, and said to themselves, "Yeah. This is fine. Send it to manufacturing."
#3DPrinting people who are also engineers: I need some help with a deflection calculation. Basic situation: I have a 600g weight, 60mm on a side, being supported by four 300mm rods, in a cross-wise pattern (see diagram). Assuming the rods are made of chrome steel, and are 10mm in diameter, how much deflection would I expect to see in them when the weight is positioned in the middle (like in the diagram)?
I should just throw them into the recycle-this-PLA-when-I-figure-out-how box, but instead they stay on my desk because they're just interesting shapes.
One or two is fine, but I realized i have dozens littering my otherwise tidy workspace. 🤦♂️
My Filament Stackers are ready to go, but I've reached an impasse. Thangs.com wants me to set up ongoing plans that people subscribe to. MyMiniFactory wants me to pay like $25 a month.
Are there any 3D printing focused sites that would just let me sell a model for $6 and just take a cut of the sale with no monthly fees or buyer subscriptions?
I'm also going to overhaul the pegboard... This 3D printed holder can contain all these screwdrivers in half the vertical space it used to take up. I'm digging into some OpenSCAD pegboard holder generators now...