First time #3dprinting with trichromatic filament. 3 separate colors bonded together in one filament. Due to the way it flows straight through the hot end the color on the outside, changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling, changing the color of the object
I finally got my 3d printer up and running again after being down for a while, and it's nice to hear the pitter-patter of little stepper motors around the house again.
Side by side, the two #toys that shapped my life. On the left it’s a #prusa 3d printer and on the right it’s an #apple#iMac. I can’t wait for the next thing to have this kind of impact in my life.
Interesting!
Printed this bird using GEEETECH Matte black PLA using variable layer height.
The matte-ness changes depending on layer height, being more matte with smaller layer height. It's not speed related as the outer perimeter speed doesn't change.
I'm thinking of switching one of my printers to klipper, does anyone know if there is a graphical config tool for klipper? (like what the rrf config tool does for reprap firmware)
You are looking for something like #KIAUH. Here is a quick link to just see what it looks like, I think I actually used this page when I installed it a few weeks ago, but I definitely used KIAUH.
I don't see it mentioned often, but one of my techniques for making good first layers is decreasing the speed of the print and monitoring the first layer or two.
Your experiences may be different . #3dprinting
Another tip is to use thicker first layers. I just tried to print at 0.2mm layer heights, and it was just too low for my current mesh to print at the first layer. So I just made the first layer 0.24mm
Great! Replacing the mainboard in the #EasyThreed K7 with the ET-4000+ version means I now have a configurable @marlinfirmware build option. #3dPrinting
It is quite interesting. The creator attempted to almost create a standard for #opensource macros and how one should set up your config and macros to make it compatible and easily extendable with other macros.
I quite like the idea, but I am not completely sold at this time.
One reason for this, is because my enclosure heaters aren't controlled by Klipper and PWM, it is controlled by an #ESP32 over MQTT, because the #RaspberryPi doesn't support the zero-cross interrupt of the dimmer module.
So my enclosure heaters aren't defined as normal heaters, but rather as an output, which sends an MQTT value to a topic.
I might be wrong and will do some further investigation, and I might be able to extend this to support my setup. One way would be to change the M141: Set Chamber Temperature (Fast) #gcode
The #Creality#CR6SE had a large footprint because it is a bed slinger, so to enclose it completely, I have an 80x80x80 enclosure around it. That's a lot of air. For fast high prints, using the bed is too slow.
I pf course overkilled it, and it isn't necessary, but I can set a temperature from room temperature to 60°C and it is automatically controlled.
And now, as per usual when discovering a new filament, I’m just enamored with ABS. Dial in the settings and it prints as easy as PLA. I know it’s old news to many but I’m like a kid in a candy store #3dprinting
I only print with #ABS, I have a single roll of PLA because I needed the color. But I print with ABS and actually find it easy, I don't have warping problems. If I were to print PLA now, I might even mess it up.
Just to make sure, you are running #Klipper here with the native Klipper LCD support? That is also the default #Ender3 display, right?
It really looks great! I just love the icon for the nozzle, it looks very good. I've been wondering if I want to go for a touch screen and #KlipperScreen or just for an LCD display like this. I have a #Creality#CR6SE, so my fisplay is currently not working with Klipper.
If I boot then try to deploy, nothing happens. Light stays red. Same with a reset or test command, no action.
If I wait a few minutes, suddenly it all works as normal.
Afaik nothing is stuck. If I wait it'll happily build a bed mesh, but if I try right out of power up it'll run the nozzle straight into the bed without deploying the probe. #Marlin and #Klipper both do the same.
I'd love to get a probe method that uses the nozzle itself (of which there are a few) (yay, 0,0,0 offsets!) But I've not seen one I can cleanly integrate.
Load cell leveling is great, I use it, but it can have its quirks. Just make sure that the bowden tube doesn't mess with the sensor. If you have a direct drive, then I think it would be one of the best solutions if you don't have the flexibility of a #Voron#Stealthburner.
I don't personally have a #RaspberryPi camera on my setup, I am running with a Logitech C310 webcam, but I found a few tutorials the last few days while I was busy configuring something else in #Klipper.
It is best to run this with a vibrant filament. Something like black and white can make it hard to see. I used my red filament.
After you tuned it, run it again to see if it worked. Also, you can use this print to determine your max acceleration and velocity. I tested it with a max acceleration of 5000 mm/s^2 and saw that I should cap mine at 2000.